Black Down Temple of the Winds circular walk

This circular walk takes you from Haslemere, into the South Downs, and up Black Down Hill to Temple of the Winds.

So the story goes, Lord Tennyson (an English poet from the 19th Century) used to walk around the area wrapped in his cloak, and would sit up at Temple of the Winds getting inspiration for his poetry.

I literally had no idea who he was, so had to look him up. Apparently he is a big deal poet. One of the best from England.

What is Temple of the Winds?

It’s a viewpoint at the top of Black Down hill, with a curved stone bench and arguably the best view across the South Downs.

Before doing the walk I had read numerous times about how it has the best view across the hills of the South Downs. And to be honest, I was a little sceptical. The photos I saw were alright, not mind blowing. I figured people just said that as clickbait.

Let me tell you. I was proved wrong by a mile. When I got up there I was lost for words, granted, I had no one with me to say any words to anyway. So who knows.

Photos do not do it justice in any way. I almost don’t want to share any photos of the view because they really aren’t comparable to what it’s like up there (I will show you the photos).

A view across the South Downs from Temple of the Winds, after the walk up Black down Hill

The views are beyond amazing, and I wouldn’t hesitate to say maybe the best I have seen on a walk down in this part of England (after the Seven Sisters Cliffs that is).

Better than Leith Hill and Box Hill which are the well known ones.

What was the Black Down Temple of the Winds walk like?

I absolutely loved this walk…apart from finding myself in a field of bulls. But that’s a story for later.

Starting in the cute quaint village of Haslemere, then into the woodland with makeshift wooden plank bridges and narrow off-piste trails. Some open fields surrounded by thick trees and the occasional enviable house poking out through them. Some small hills, one big hill, lots of mud. Walking around the top of Black Down hill, there are so many different spots for views of the South Downs all around, not just the Temple of the Winds viewpoint. Oh and plenty of benches dotted about, to sit and admire the views.

A houses nestled within the trees across the meadow on the walk to Black down hill and Temple of the winds.

A muddy trail through the tree tunnel like woodland.

A path leading through the heather on the walk away from Temple of the Winds on the top of Black down hill. There is a view in the distance of the countryside hills.

A small dirt trail leading downhill through the grass on the Black down Hill Temple of the winds walk. There are bushes ahead and fence woodland in the distance.

A narrow trail through the heather with views in the distance on the walk around Black Down hill.

A wide trail leading through the woodland on the Black down hill, temple of the winds walk. The trees are leafless and all have thin, tall trunks.

Fun fact: Black Down hill is the fourth highest hill in Southeast England. Not settling for being fourth, it is in fact the highest in the South Downs.

Another fun fact: For this walk you will go between two counties, with Haslemere being in Surrey, and Black Down and Temple of the Winds being in Sussex.

Logistics for this circular Black Down Temple of the Winds walk

Start/Finish: Haslemere
Alternate start/finish: Black Down car park. Which would actually make this a totally different walk. This is more if you want to walk up Black Down hill and to Temple of the Winds without doing a bigger hike. When looking up the walk online, this is the route that was talked about. It was too short for me, which is why I did something different.
How to get there: There are direct trains to Haslemere from London Waterloo and Clapham Junction. Journey time 50min to 1 hour. If coming by car, there is a car park at the station.
Distance: 8.2 miles
Time: 3h 30min
Terrain: Dirt trail, lots of mud, grass trail, some road.
Elevation: With the ups and downs, you will walk up about 580m. The highest point is just under 280m.
Tips/amenities: Your usually shops and pubs in Haslemere. On Black Down hill and around Temple of the Winds, there are plenty of benches to rest your legs, after the walk up.
Time of year: I did this during winter.

Map for the circular Black Down Temple of the Winds walk

-More walking ideas/suggestions 
will be at the end of the post-

A guide to the circular Black Down Temple of the Winds walk

This walk to Black Down hill and Temple of the Winds, starts from Haslemere station. When you exit, take a left, and follow the main road around and past the town. A word of advise, after leaving the station, walk on the other side of the road. The pavement on this side ends where there is a blind bend in the road.

Walking along the raised pavement alongside the houses in Haslemere at the start of the walk to temple of the winds.

A red brick building in Haslemere on the walk through town. The budding has a clock and bell on the top.

A road lined with houses and shops on the walk through Haslemere in Surrey.

Just before the house in the photo below, there is a small trail leading uphill. Take it.

A path lined with grass, next to the road, with bushes on the left side and red brick houses on the walk out of Haslemere.

This section is quite narrow, a bit muddy and quite steep. It takes you up dirt trail, then steps, until you reach the road.

Narrow steps leading uphill between the hedges on the walk from Haslemere towards Black down hill.

At the road, cross it to pick up the trail on the other side. When you reach the next road, the trail picks up again to the left, then first right. There is a signpost here to guide you.

A wooden signpost saying 'public byway', next to the bushes. There is a building just visible behind the bushes.

A dirt trail leading through and under the bushes on the walk out of Haslemere. — .

Walk downhill through the trees

The trail continues through more bushes, and then trees, as it begins to take you downhill.

A trail at the bottom of two slopes leading through the woodland on the walk from Haslemere towards Black Down Hill and Temple of the winds. The ground is covered in orange fallen leaves and there is a person just about visible on the other end of the trail.

Out of the trees, you will be on a sort of driveway type road. Continue straight down past some houses to get to the next road with a pond on the other side.

A road with a brick wall and hedge on the left and grass banks and trees on the right. — Continue straight down there.

Ok, I have said the word road a lot so far. It’s not as bad as it sounds. These are all countryside type quiet roads.

Walk off-piste though the woods

Now, this is where things get fun. If you turn left on the road, you would think to continue straight through the open gate. Don’t do that. Instead, you should see a wooden signpost just before it on the right. Follow that. It will take you into the trees and onto a very off-piste style trail.

A wooden signpost pointing in two directions on the walk to Black down hill and temple of the winds in the south downs. — Follow the orange one

A wooden plank across a ditch leading into and under the overgrowth woodland on the walk towards black down hill and temple of the winds.

A dirt trail leading through the fence woodland overgrowth.

Keep going, and you will reach another wooden signpost, guiding you to the right and along a long wooden plank.

Note: This might be a bit slippy if it’s been raining. So careful.

A wooden signpost in the woodland, pointing in two directions.

A wooden plank leading uphill through the bushes and trees on the walk towards Temple of the Winds and Black down hill. Most of the leaves are green, but one small tree has orange leaves.

Once you reach the top, go left. Right follows the Serpent trail. This is not what we are doing today.

Note: The Serpent trail also takes you to Black Down hill and Temple of the Winds, it’s just a different walk route.

Walk further through the muddy woods

This is where the mud really started to shine. I passed a couple of people along here walking their dogs, and one woman exclaimed how muddy it was. Yes it was.

Despite the fact that I wear waterproof hiking boots, I can’t help but always do the mud dance.

A wide dirt trail covered in brown leaves, leading through the woodland.

A muddy dirt track under the woodland trees. It is dark under the tree cover and there is a fallen tree across the trail ahead. — A little obstacle

Anyway, keep going to reach the gate which takes you into an open field.

Walk through the field with the cows

At the entrance to this gate, it did warn of cattle in the field. Although I have a fear of cows in fields, I am getting better with it.

The ground covered in brown leaves, with a wooden gate ahead, leading to a green grass field on the other side.

Looking across the meadow with its long grass, bushes and a few small trees on the walk to Temple of the winds on Black down hill.

Looking across the long grass of the meadow towards the woodland in the distance and a houses just visible nestled within the trees.

The field itself is lovely, forming a sort of valley with a mix of bushy and leafless trees dotted about.

As I got further into the field I spotted the cows up ahead. Resting right next to the trail as they always seem to be. I acted brave and continued along, but as I got closer I noticed some horns.

Cows with horns laying across the meadow. Behind them, the ground goes uphill, with trees on the other side.

I proceeded with caution, to then realise that they all had horns.

I froze in the spot. Was I in a field full of bulls?

No way in hell was I walking past those beasts.

To the left, a bit further down was a fence. I proceeded to walk off trail into the overgrowth, so I could walk a bit nearer to the fence. That way, if they attacked, I could run and jump over it.

It was very cobwebby in the overgrowth. Once I was safely out of eyesight of the cow bulls, and able to go back up to the trail, I was covered in the sticky white stuff.

Leave the field to walk to the horses

Out of the gate on the other side, you will walk past a cute brick house, then at the road, pick up the trail on the other side with the wooden signpost.

A grass trail, leading to a wooden gate on the walk towards black down hill and temple of the winds. There is an old looking brick house on the other side of the gate, and some trees. One of the trees is very tall with leafless branches spread out.

A wooden signpost pointing to a small trail between the fence and ground slope.

The next bit of the trail is super narrow between the fence and the bushes. It will lead you through a gate at the end with a horse field in front.

A very narrow dirt trail, with a bush on the right, and wooden fence on the left.

Four horses in a field along the walk towards Temple of the winds in Sussex. The horses are behind a wooden and wire fence, and there is woodland on the other side of the field.

The trees on the other side of the horse field were pretty cool. A dense concentration of leafless trees, with bushy ones poking up through them.

At the horses, turn left to walk along the wide grassy trail.

A wide grass trail, with a wooden and metal fence to the right, and a bush and two tall trees to the left. — .

Follow the trail straight even though it’s not obvious

The next bit is a little confusing. When you reach the end, there will be a gate on the left and right. Neither of which are for public. I had another look at the map and wondered how I had found my self at a dead end. Well, according to the map I wasn’t. The trail continues straight. But how could this be? There is no more straight.

After some serious confusion and thinking about how to handle this, I realised the trail does go straight. You sort of zigzag through the fence straight ahead….It was one of those moments I had to laugh at myself.

Walk back into the woods and the very steep bit

Follow the trail as it takes you down hill, then left into the woods again. This next bit is nice and off-piste, as it takes you further down with a sharp bend at the wooden post, then one more very step bit, to reach the (very muddy) trail at the bottom.

A dirt trail loosely covered in orange and brown leaves, as it leads into and under the woodland.

An orange leaf covered trail going steeply downhill through the branches of the trees.

A muddy dirt trail running through the woodland on the walk towards Temple of the winds in Sussex.

At the main trail, go left.

At the end of this muddy trail, go straight across the road and up a short steep hill, then turn right. There are a couple of wooden sign posts along this way to guide you.

A tall wooden signpost in the woodland. on the other side of the sign is a steep hill which is covered in brown leaves. — .

Walk out of the woods to the first far reaching view across the South Downs

Next, walk along some more muddyness, towards the light and out of the woods. The trail becomes grassy as it takes you to the left, with a lovely view across the rooftops to the hills of the South Downs on the other side.

A wide dirt trail leading through the bushes and trees towards a light opening it the end.

A wide grass trail with heather and trees to the left and a fence and more trees to the right.

Looking across the leaves of the bushes and over the rooftops towards a view of the South Down hills in the distance.

At the next signpost, continue straight, and then into some more woodland.

A leaning wooden signpost pointing in three directions. There is a green grass field with woodland on the other side behind it. — Follow the blue one

Then follow this signpost straight:

A brown leaf covered trail through the woodland trees. There is a wooden signpost pointing the way on the trail — Keep going blue

Then at this junction, take the left trail:

A trail split, covered in brown leaves. There is a big bush between the trail split.

A leaf covered trail leading through the overhanging trees of the woodland on the walk towards Temple of the winds in Sussex.

A muddle dirt trail through the woodland.

Tall trees with think trunks, with a trail running through them.

At the next junction, turn right, and this will lead you to a cute road bend.

An orange and brown covered trail, with a wooden signpost pointing the way. There are trees and bushes along the sides of the trail, and a green field visible through the trees on the other side. — Turn right here.

A dirt path leading through an opening in the woodland to a country road and houses on the other side on the Black Down Temple of the winds walk. — .

More views across the South Downs as you approach the final uphill walk to Black Down and Temple of the Winds

At the road, turn left to walk along the track. Along here, things will open up to the right for a lovely view across the hills. Whoever lives in the house here is very lucky with that view.

A country road with aq grass bank on the left and a sunken brick house on the right on the walk towards Temple of the Winds in Sussex.

A path track with bushes and woodland on the left and a downhill field on the right.

Looking across a field to the South Downs hills. There is a red leafed tree in the field.

At this point in the walk, I knew I was close to Temple of the Winds, but I also knew I wasn’t that high. This could only mean one thing. A very steep bit was about to come….

This track will wind you around the the left and uphill to reach the road. Here you will get an even better view across the South Downs. A taste of what is about to come.

A dirt path leading uphill, lined with bushes and trees

Looking across a green grass field towards hills in the distance in the South Downs. There is a shed in the field next to a big tree without leaves. — .

Walk up Black Down Hill to reach Temple of the Winds

OK, so here is the bit you have been waiting for. The star of the walk….and also the very steep uphill bit.

At this road, to the right and bit further along, is a trail leading uphill to the left. Walk up this hill, then at the National Trust sign, take the trail to the left.

A country road with a dirt trail leading off it into the woods in Sussex.

This is where the uphill slog begins.

A steep uphill dirt trail through the woods on the walk up to Temple of the Winds on Black Down hill.

A dirt trail through the trees on the last bit of the walk to Temple of the Winds. There is a wooden signpost with a blue trail sign.

As you near the top, you will walk through a gate, then continue up a little more.

Walk to the first viewpoint bench at the top of Black Down Hill

As you continue up, things become a bit less specific when it comes to trails. But you should see a wooden bench to the right.

Head on over there for a brilliant view across the South Downs.

A dirt trail covered in fallen orange leaves in the woodland on Black Down hill. — Go right here

A wooden bench in an opening under the trees, near temple of the winds on the walk on black Down hill in Sussex. The bench looks out to a view of the hills of the South Downs.

For a moment I actually thought this this was Temple of the Winds, although, I was a little confused as I was expecting a stone bench. It turned out, this is not it. You need to walk a little further to reach Temple of the Winds viewpoint.

But honestly, the view from this bench was spectacular, I was surprised this wasn’t the spot.

I soon discovered that there are so many points up here with an amazing view. This is one of the reasons I think this place wins for views compared to other more famous viewpoints. You just have so many options, so much space to find your own more private bit, rather than being tied to one small area.

Walk to Temple of the winds

Now, to continue on to Temple of the Winds, walk past the bench, keeping to the right trail. This will guide you around to the expected stone curved bench, and again, another perfect spot for an incredible view across the hills.

The stone bench of Temple of the winds on the walk around black down hill. The bench is under a big trees with leaning branches.

Temple of the winds viewpoint, on the walk on top of black down hill. The view is of the fields and hills of the South Downs.

This was my cue to break for lunch. One guy and his dog passed by me, but otherwise I was completely alone to enjoy the view in peace. I did come here on a weekday, so I can’t comment on if it gets busy on weekends. But as I said, there are plenty of spots up here to admire the views, so you may be able to find some privacy.

Walk across the top of Black Down hill

To leave the Temple of the Winds viewpoint, walk up the trail straight behind it across the tree roots.

Tree roots across the dirt trail on the top of Black down hill in the South Downs.

At the junction, either works, but I went right. This allowed me some more view beauty to the right.

The dirt trail as it splits, surrounded by woodland, on the walk away from temple of the winds. — I took a right, here.

A sitting bench looking at the view, through a few tall trees with thin trunks, on the walk on top of Black down hill.

Wether you took the right or left trail, at the next junction, turn right, and follow this path through the trees.

When you reach the pond, turn onto the trail on the left. Note, I don’t know if this pond is an all year thing or just a winter rain thing. Just incase, there is also a trail signpost here.

A pond surrounded by woodland. — The pond

Walk a short way up this trail, and you will be greeted by another gorgeous view on the other side. If you follow the view, you will reach a slightly more maintained trail on the other side. When you reach it, turn right.

A path leading through the heather, with one tall tree on either side on the walk around the top of black down hill in Sussex.

A path through the heather with trees in the distance Pam the walk from Temple of the winds on black down hill. — .

Walk to the Black Down western viewpoint

On the well maintained trail, you will be walking with a gorgeous view to the left, and a bit further along, another wooden viewpoint bench. Keep going, and you will reach yet another view point bench known as the Black Down Western Viewpoint.

Looking at a view across the trees and to the hills, on the walk around black down hill and temple of the winds.

A wooden bunch under a tall tree, looking out to the view, on the walk around Black down hill in the South Downs.

A path winding through the heather, and a few trees on the right side.

A wooden bench at black down hill viewpoint, looking to the hills in the distance, in the south downs. — .

Walk a bit off-piste from the Black Down viewpoint

The walk to Black Down hill viewpoint was on a pleasant but simple path. I was ready for some off-piste again, so to leave this point, I took the less obvious trail.

Just in front of the bench, you should see a small almost hidden trail going slightly downhill. Take it.

A very narrow dirt trail though the heather on the Temple of the winds, black down hill walk in the South Downs. — Take this trail in front on the bench

A narrow trail through the heather on the walk around black down hill in Sussex.

You will be walking along a very narrow trail amongst the heather.

When you reach the first main junction, take the left. Then at the next one, take the right and continue on the nice narrow dirt path.

the trail leading to a fork split with heather and trees around. — Go left here

The trail surrounded by heather and bushes and a tree. — Go right here (or technically straight)

A narrow trail through the heather, leading to some trees on the temple of the winds Black down hill walk in the South Downs. — .

Walk back on the main trail

You will reach a t-junction at the main path. Go left, and continue walking past the heather and trees, and maybe a pond on the left.

A small trail leading onto a bigger trail with heather and bushes and a few trees scattered about. — Go left here

A small pond amongst the heather on the walk around the top of black down hill in the South Downs. There is a leafless tree leaning over the pond.

A wide path surrounded by heather, bushes and trees.

At the next main junction, take the right, and this will lead you along more trail to reach a gate. Go straight through the gate, and along more dirt trail to reach another junction.

The trail as it splits in two. — Go right here

The trail winding its way though the heather, with some trees up ahead.

The ground covered in fallen brown and red leaves. there is a wooden gate ahead.

Two wooden signposts next to the trail where it splits in tow. There are a few trees with tall trunks. — Go right here

You could actually go either way here as both join up later on. The left looked more interesting, although, that is the Serpent Trail. I have planned to come and do the Serpent trail, so for that reason I decided to go right. You know, to mix things up.

Once I have done it, I will let you know which is better, left or right.

For now, right was very civilised. Slightly too civilised for me. But it was lovely nonetheless.

Walk down Black Down hill

Continuing along this trail, you will reach a gate (and the point where those two trail meet). Walk though it, and you will make a steep decline through the trees down Black Down hill.

A walking trail lines with grass, heather and trees.

A wooden signpost next to a trail covered in fallen leaves leading towards a wooden gate on the walk down from Black down hill in Sussex.

A dirt trail lined with trees and covered in brown and red leaves, on the walk down from black down hill and temple of the winds.

A wooden gate leading to a grass field, with trees in the distance.

At the bottom, the trail curves to the left to take you through a gate and into a field.

Walk through the field

Here, there are a couple of options. Straight through the field follows the Serpent trail, along a lovely grassy path. Left goes along the perimeter and down.

I didn’t want to take the Serpent Trail, as I said, I would be back to do it another time. But it did look nice. I started to make my way along the other trail, but quickly changed my mind. The Serpent trail was just calling out to me.

I loved the way it lead straight towards the bushy trees with a manor house poking through them.

A wide grass trail in the field, leading towards woodland. there is a Manor House poking out through the trees.

looking across the meadow to woodland trees, and some houses on the hill in the distance, near the end of the temple of the winds walk.

Following the nice grass trail, you will get some more views of lovely hill side tree bush houses.

At the end of the field, through the gate, go left. This will take you further downhill with a wonderful view of the bushy trees all around.

A dirt path leading to a wooden gate. There is woodland to the right, and woodland visible in the distance past the gate.

A trail split, where the right trail leading under the trees, and the left one leads down hill to the open, on the black down temple of the winds walk. — Go left here

A down hill field with dense woodland ahead, on the walk back to Haslemere from black down hill and temple of the winds. — .

Walk to the road to pick up the trail back to Haslemere

At the bottom is another gate, go through it and follow the trail as it guides you around to the right and onto the road.

A wooden gate on a dirt trail, surrounded by bushes.

A long country road lined with trees and bushes, on the walk back towards Haslemere.

Follow this road, past another gorgeous enviable home, to reach the junction you were at earlier on in the walk. Remember, that bit where you took the first off-piste.

A country road on the walk back to Haslemere. There is a grass bank to the right and trees ahead. There is a brick fence on the bank side with a house with a red roof on the other side.

A country lane curving to the left. There is a wooden fence on the left side and bushes and trees to the right.

A country road under the trees, with a red brick house and white coloured house ahead, on the walk back to Haslemere. — Turn right before that house

Turn right before the house in the photo above, and continue up the road to reach the trail. Note, there is a fork in the trail. You need to take the left one.

A trail split, with red and orange leaves covering the ground.

This is the trail you came down here on. Also, remember how it was downhill to get here. Well, you guessed it. Now you gotta walk up. Lots of up through the trees.

Basically just walk back the way you came….Incase you forgot, there are a couple of small road crossings, then for the final bit, you get to walk down the steps instead of up.

More walks nearby

Haslemere is a wonderful location, with direct quick access to walks in the Surrey Hills and South Downs.

Devils Punch bowl walk – 8miles. Just north of this walk, also starts from Haslemere. It’s one of those walks where nature defies belief. It also features Temple of the Four Winds, not to be confused with Temple of the Winds on this walk. It also features Gibbet Hill. The second highest hill in Surrey.

As I have mentioned a few times, you could try out the Serpent Trail – I will do it soon and let you know all about it.

Famous hill walks in South East England

Box Hill –A circular walk around Box Hill and the Stepping Stones 4 miles. It’s a long uphill slog to get to it, but of course, those views. This one is in the Surrey hills.

St Martha’s Hill – 11 miles. This one starts over in Guildford in the Surrey hills as well. Not as popular as Box Hill, but I think that’s just because it’s not as well known about. If I had to choose between the two, I would actually pick this one. This walk also features Newlands Corner which is a great viewpoint spot as well.

Leith Hill – You may have heard of it. It’s a pretty famous one down in South East England. With very far reaching views. On a clear day you can even see the London skyline. I haven’t written it up yet. I need to go do it again so I can provide accurate information.

For more walking ideas, you could check out the South Downs website.