There have been very few times in my life where I have felt unsafe, but this walk from Woolwich to Dartford was one of them.
What to expect on the walk from Woolwich to Dartford
The walk from Woolwich to Dartford started out alright. A pleasant path, with a view to Canary Wharf back in the distance.
Then it’s a long stretch of not much to look at. Despite it being a sunny weekend, it was eerily quiet. I was very aware that I had a lot of expensive stuff on me. Camera, watch, iPhone. I’ve done plenty of walks where I’m all alone, and never felt unsafe. It’s hard to explain it, it was just a vibe.
You will also walk through industrial Thames. A lot of fences, concrete walls, and danger signs. And the star of the show, the sewage plant. The smell was vile. I wanted to be sick.
Then there is Erith. There was the smell of weed, and I felt like eyes were on me. I had a man tell me to move along in an aggressive tone, and a motorbike whiz past on the riverside walking path. I wanted to cry.
When I got home later, I told my friend about Erith and she told me her ex had once said to her that one place she should never walk alone is Erith.
Then there is a very nice trail to finish through the marshes. But I found it hard to enjoy, as my anxiety was high, wondering if someone might come and rob me. I’m probably being dramatic. Maybe I was just having a bad day.
Logistics
- Start: Woolwich Arsenal, London.
- Finish: Dartford, Kent.
- Distance: 12 miles
- Option to shorten the walk: Yes (see public transport below)
- Time: 3h 30min
- Difficulty: Easy in theory.
- Terrain: Concrete, asphalt, a bit of dirt trail towards the end.
- Amenities: Lots of stuff in Woolwich, Morrisons in Erith, next to the station in Dartford is a shopping area with Asda and Starbucks.
- Time of year: I walked from Woolwich to Dartford in July.
Read the previous day here: Tower Bridge to Thames Barrier – Day 19
Public Transport
Woolwich Arsenal has the DLR, Thameslink, South Eastern, and Elizabeth line trains. Dartford is on the South Eastern, and Thameslink railway lines.
Erith has a train station if you want to end the walk there.
Map for the walk from Woolwich to Dartford
Route Description: How to walk from Woolwich to Dartford
Out of Woolwich Arsenal station it’s a little confusing. There are multiple exits, and even though I got my map out to figure out which way to go, I still got a bit lost. So I’m gonna leave you to figure out how to get onto the river.
Once there, turn right. You are going to be walking with the river on your left side all day. In fact, there are no more bridge crossings for the rest of the way to the sea.
The walk starts out on concrete, with a view to Canary Wharf back in the distance. Goodbye city.
After not too long it turns to a wide dirt path, with greenery. So far so good. I was actually quite pleased, after days of concrete, it was nice to be on something more dirt like. It doesn’t last long though, and you are soon on hard ground again. There is some asphalt in there, but it’s mostly concrete.
The long stretch of nothing
For a long while, there isn’t much to look at. It started raining so I hid under a small tree for a bit, then got bored to kept going.
What struck me was how eerily quiet it was. There was the odd person/cyclist, but I was mostly alone. It was a hot weekend. Where was everyone?
The industrial
Things start to become a bit more industrial. You will pass by the Crossness Pumping Station, which is the old sewer pumping station. It was opened in 1865, and decommissioned in the 1950s. It’s now a museum and has been used as a filming location for Sherlock Holmes.
I soon discover that the new sewage station is just next door. The smell let me know. My gosh, the smell. I tried to hold my breath, but it goes on too long for that. It was a hot day which didn’t help matters. I had already decided I would stop to eat soon, but I would have too delay that for a bit.
Out the other end, and once trauma from the smell had dissipated, I sat on a concrete wall to eat my lunch with a view to some other industrial building.
Going forward, it’s more concrete and bleakness. That uneasiness I mentioned earlier, I had been feeling for a while now. I considered at least taking my watch off and putting it in my bag, but decided I was being paranoid.
Erith
You will reach a sign that points left and right for Erith and the Thames Path. Either is fine. I took the left which gave me a little more river walking before being pushed onto the road.
At the road turn left and walk to the end, then turn left again which will get you back to the river.
Somewhere along here I got my phone out to see the route. This is where a man asked me if I was lost. I said no. He told me to ‘move along then’, in quite an aggressive tone. So I put my head down and shuffled along. I then put my phone away and took my watch off.
I felt like I was being watched.
The river path is just to the right of the blue hut building (see photo below). It was on this path where I heard a loud revving behind me. I looked back to see a motorbike coming my way, weaving around the benches. I stopped still. He zoomed on past. I wanted to go home.
I picked up the pace following the path back onto the road.
Along this road, take the road behind the Wheatley Terrace road sign to get onto the main road, where you turn left.
Walk to the marshes
A bit further along the main road, turn left when you see the sign for the Yacht club, then when you reach the metal fence, go through it into the marshes.
Walking through the marshes was a bit of a surprise. Very different from the rest of the walk. It was very nice, although, I couldn’t fully relax, thinking about what just happened. If anyone had been watching me (they probably weren’t, and I’m being dramatic), it would have been quite obvious where I was walking to.
The marshes continue for some time, about 3 miles. I was really ready to go home now. It was hot, and my feet were hurting from all that hard ground from earlier.
Walk to Dartford
At the very end, you will be back onto road. Keep going under the bridge, then at the U junction, take the left to reach the main road, where you turn left.
A short way along, the official route is left at the industrial estate. I tried this way, and encountered a few spiders webs blocking the path, with spiders in them. I had to throw sticks at them to break them down to walk past. Then there was a lot of rubbish about, and then a lot of overgrowth. I decided to turn back I didn’t want to walk this way.
Back onto the main road, I continued towards the roundabout, passing by a ‘welcome to Kent, the garden of England’ sign. I had to laugh.
At the roundabout, if you turn left and go over a river, there should be a trail on the right which will take you all the way to Dartford Station. I had had enough, and decided to take the path of least resistance, and stayed on the road.
Read next: Dartford to Northfleet – Day 21