Walk from Bawdsey to Orford: Day 2 Suffolk Coast Path

Todays walk from Bawdsey to Orford is basically all marsh. The day of marsh. My plan to get into the sea everyday ended. Maybe tomorrow I would have more luck.

An old sailboat sitting on a strip of water surround by marshland, on the walk from Bawdsey to Orford.

An area of marsh land with a strip of water running through it, on the walk from Bawdsey to Orford.

A large area of marshland with a concrete war pillbox in the middle.

A small hut sitting on the marshland surrounded by water.

I did actually really enjoy the walk, and the highlight of the day was getting into a row boat, manned by an older gentleman.

A wooden walkway leading over the marsh to a river and a white row boat, on the walk from Bawdsey to Orford. There are three people in the boat.

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What to expect on the walk from Bawdsey to Orford

The day starts out following the beach, then on a trail surrounded by marsh and fields, with some Martello towers. You will get back to the shingle beach, but this is the last time, so if you want to get into the sea, you have to do it now.

AQ large area of marshland with stone steps running across it, when walking towards Orford.

A shingle beach with a houses ahead and Martello tower to the left. Half of the house is painted white, the other half painted brown.

You are then on a trail surrounded my marsh and river for the rest of the way. The terrain is easygoing. You follow the first river to reach a bridge to cross. The second river you follow to reach the ferry. If the ferry isn’t running, you have a long way to walk to get to a point you can cross to come back on the other side. In fact, there is a second Suffolk Coast Path route. If you end up having to follow the river, the alternate route then cuts across, missing out Orford and taking you straight to Snape.

Two boats sitting in the river, soured by green marshland.

You can read the previous day here: Felixstowe to Bawdsey Day 1

Logistics

Start: Bawdsey, Suffolk. IP12 3AP.
Finish: Orford, Suffolk. IP12 2NU.
Distance: 11 miles.
Time: 4h.
Terrain: Grass, dirt trail. One river crossing on a row boat.
Difficulty: Easy.
Dog friendly: No stiles or livestock.
Time of year: I walked from Bawdsey to Orford in early August.

Public Transport

Nothing in Bawdsey. In Orford, as far as I can see there is one bus a day, which goes to Ipswich. So nothing basically.

The Butley Ferry only runs on weekends and bank holidays 11-4. If it’s bad weather/too windy, it also doesn’t run. It costs £2.50 at the time of writing. If you want to catch it midweek, you can prebook. It’s a minimum of £30 though, and relies on a volunteer being available. You can find out more about it here.

Amenities

Nothing in Bawdsey, but there is a pub about 20 min walk up the road in the next village.

Orford has a little more. There is Pinneys of Orford which specialises in smoked fish and oysters. I bought myself some smoked Salmon Fillets (yes multiple, one when I arrived, another a bit later because it wasn’t dinner time yet and I was hungry, and another for the road the next day). They sell other delicatessens bits too. I thought about buying some crackers as a gift for the guys at work, but then I would have to carry it for the next few days so I didn’t.

There is a village shop, bakery, coffee shop, chocolate shop, and a few pub options.

Accommodation

In Bawdsey there isn’t much. The only thing I found was this AirBnB. I liked it though. It’s a little self contained living area.

In Orford, I stayed at the Jolly Sailor pub. It was the cheapest available (still not cheap) I liked it though. No loud pub noises, although it was a Sunday. My room had a bath (no shower) which I hadn’t realised. It shocked me at first, because I only ever shower. But I used it and loved it. It’s many years since I’ve had a bath and I needed a good soak. Very spacious room too.

Map for the walk from Bawdsey to Orford

Route description: How to walk from Bawdsey to Orford

From wherever you are in Bawdsey, head to the coast and turn left. It’s a dirt type path to begin, with the sea to your right, and marshy stuff to your left.

A long straight walking path on the left and orange shingle beach on the right with a wooden fence and tall grass separating the two, at the start of the walk towards Orford.

Looking across the tall green grass to a lake in the middle and a hut to the left of the lake.

The path then becomes grassy, and you will pass by another couple of Martello Towers…and maybe a sprinkler. It’s a big one, and turns right onto the trail. If you time it right, you can avoid getting wet. I didn’t, and got wet. I enjoyed it though. It wiped away some of the sweat. Just like yesterday, it was a muggy day.

A Martello lower on the left behind the tall grass, at the start of the walk from Bawdsey to Orford.

A long straight grass trail leading straight ahead, lined with tall hay grass.

A curved path below to the left leading towards a Martello tower. The path is surrounded by green grass. There is a sprinkler spraying water on the left.

The shingle

Some way further along, there is a turning to the right. It’s signposted with the Suffolk Coast Path disc. I realised that this was the first time I had seen one so far on this trip. I hadn’t really been looking though, it’s not hard to follow the coast.

A leaning wooden stump sign in front of a meadow, with a blue and yellow disc pointing right for the Suffolk coast path.

This leads you to a narrow trail passing another Martello Tower, to reach the road and shingle beach.

A Martello tower ahead, partially hidden behind green leafy bushes. There is a brick walled house to the right of it.

A wide path leading ahead on the left, with bushes on the right, and white walled cottages ahead.

A large area of orange shingle with tufts of grass and plants co0ming out of it.

The official way is along the shingle. I started out this way, but then wondered what I was doing. Who would choose shingle? So I quickly found a way out of it, back to the road.

A long straight tarmac road leading ahead, lined with messy grass.

Funny enough, the road is called Shingle Street.

Back to the marsh

When you reach the car parking area, you can go back to the beach safely. By that I mean, you don’t have to walk on the shingle.

There is a sign warning of sinking sand, which wasn’t an issue as I had no intention of walking far enough across the shingle to get to that point.

A sign warning of sinking sand and mud, in front of a shingle beach.

There is then a bit more road, and when the road curves to lead you onto the shingle, you can turn left instead, to walk on the grass.

A road leading ahead to the left, with a meadow to the right and white walled bungalows on the far right.

A yellow grass trail surrounded by overgrown messy grass.

I could see the masts of boats just over the shingle ridge. I was intrigued to get a proper look. They must have been right by the coastline. Not intrigued enough though to walk on the shingle to get to them.

The mast of a sailboat poking ip behind the hill, on the walk from Bawdsey to Orford.

When the grass path leads onto the shingle, don’t go that way, it’s a dead end. Turn left instead.

Follow the river

You will now be walking with a river to your right. You need to get to the other side. A bridge here would be handy, but for now, follow it for a bit to reach the road.

A calm reflective river on the right. and strip of grass with a trail on the left.

One thing that came to mind was how boggy and brown the river looked. I wouldn’t want to swim in that. I had a feeling that I had missed my chance to get into the sea today. Looking at the map, it was mostly marsh and river from now on.

Looking across the marshland surrounded by water.

At the road, turn right to go over the bridge, and pick up the trail on the right, to walk back along the river.

More marsh

It’s now more of the same. Ridge walking between marsh and marsh, with boats floating by in the distance.

Lots of little ducks sitting on the calm river, when walking between Bawdsey to Orford.

A long straight grass path leading straight ahead, surrounded by marshland.

A strip of grass in the left corner of the frame, with water to the right and a land peninsular in the water with people standing on it.

When you reach the end with a wall, the path is down to the left. You want to turn right on that path.

Past the bunker thing, you can either walk on the ridge again, or below. I chose below to mix it up. It was quite wild down here, and I was probably getting bitten by insects.

A grass trail leading straight ahead, lined with tall unkempt grass.

A grass trail leading straight ahead, surrounded by marshland, on the walk between Bawdsey and Orford.

The two join up later, for more ridge walking.

There was this vintage looking sail boat following my route for some time. We were going at about the same pace. Then he joined up with his vintage sail boat friend. I decided to stop here to eat, and watch them.

Two old sail boats sitting next to each other on the river, on the walk from Bawdsey towards Orford.

I also noticed a portaloo in the middle of the marsh in the distance.

A large area of marshland with a portaloo sitting in the middle.

Walk to Butlins Ferry

After more ridge between marsh walking, you will reach the Butley Ferry. It’s quite obvious as it’s the only thing different from just marsh which has dominated the day.

A wooden walkway leading into the river, with a row boat sitting next to it, on the walk towards Orford.

As I approached, I wondered how it worked. Then I saw two elderly gentlemen sitting with a little ferry boat sign. One of them would be the driver. I was particularly surprised when I saw it was a row boat.

He asked me which way I was walking across the other side. Along the river or road. I said river. He suggested the road. The river way was much longer and harder. Once across the other side, a man coming from the river way warned me it was quite hard going.

I didn’t need to be told twice. So instead of turning right, I turned left.

Left is along river for a bit, but at the end, there is a right turn to reach road.

A sailboat sitting in the river, surrounded by marshland.

A small row boat with people in it, next to the river bank.

The alternate route

I was quite pleased I took this route. The road wasn’t like normal road. It soon becomes sandy, lined with lovey flowers. It was nice to see something other than marsh.

a long straight skirt road lined with an orange crop field to the right, and green meadow to the left, on the walk towards Orford from Bawdsey.

A long straight sandy road, lined with tall grass and bushes.

It does eventually become normal road, and after a bit, I felt a but guilty for cheating, so took a right turn at the footpath sign to finish off through the marsh.

An area of marsh with water pockets and the river on the other side of it.,

(Orford is close. If you stay on the road, it will lead you there).

Walk to Orford

Taking the footpath, after a short while on a dirt track, you will see bits of Orford across the marshy meadow. At the end of this path, walk up onto the ridge, then follow it left.

A long straight trail through the grass ridge, surrounded by marshland.

A bit further along, keep an eye out for the Suffolk Coast Path sign which takes you off the ridge, and across a couple of little wooden bridges. It’s wild down here. Lots of tall things.