I wasn’t that excited about todays walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading. I didn’t think it would be that great, as I could see on the map a bunch of road walking, and sections of the trail taking you away from the river. Plus I imagined walking through the Reading bit would be quite grim…..
What to expect on the walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading
It turned out I loved this section along the Thames Path. The road bits aside, it was a very lovely walk. Something unique about it, that makes it different from every other section so far, is the hill. Yes, a hill. Who knew there would be a hill when walking along the Thames. Seeing the river from a different perspective was quite something.
There was something else about the scenery on this walk which I enjoyed. It just felt different. Later I remembered that this stretch takes you through the Chilterns AONB. That’s why it felt different. We are in an area of outstanding natural beauty.
Just like previous sections of the Thames, there are impressive riverside houses to look at, although this one seemed to have the most so far.
I was also pleasantly surprised with Reading. It was much nicer than I was expecting. Not just a little bit nice. Very nice.
Logistics
- Start: Goring and Streatley, Berkshire. RG8 0ES.
- Finish: Reading, Berkshire. RG1 1LT.
- Distance: 11.5 miles
- Option to shorten the walk: Yes. You can stop at Pangbourne Station 4.5 miles in, or Tilehurst station 8.5 miles in. Both these stations have trains to Reading or Goring and Streatley. When I describe the route below, I show you where to go.
- Time: 3h 45min
- Difficulty: Easy
- Terrain: Dirt, grass, road, promenade.
- Dog friendly: Yes (with some road sections).
- Time of year: I walked from Goring and Streatley to Reading in early June.
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Public Transport
Goring and Streatley and Reading are on the same train line, with direct trains from London Paddington. You can buy a return ticket to Goring and Streatley, and then return from Reading at the end of the walk.
The direct train to Goring and Streatley takes an hour or just under from Paddington, or you can get the fast train to Reading in 23 min, then change onto another train to goring and Strealtey which is a 12 min journey.
Amenities
Goring and Streatley: For supplies, there is a Tesco on the other side of the station. At the start of the path is Pierreponts Cafe. I picked up a coffee from here. Food looked great too.
Along the route: 4 miles in is the Greyhound Inn pub. Just past here, the village of Pangbourne has some coffee shops and pubs, although the walk doesn’t take you into the village centre. It’s a short walk off the river though if you want to explore.
Reading: It’s a big town so you should find anything you need here. The station has public toilets, M&S, and other food options.
Accommodation
In Goring and Streatley you have a YHA for something cheap. This one isn’t pet friendly. For something that isn’t a hostel (or if you want to bring your dog) I recommend the Miller of Mansfield.
Reading has tonnes of options. The cheapest I could find is the Travelodge. It’s pet friendly. For something else, you can have a browse here and see what you like the look of.
Map for the walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading
You can read about day 7 Wallingford to Goring and Streatley here.
Route Description: How to walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading
From the station you want to exit on the west side. If arriving from London direction, I think it’s the same side. I can’t quite remember. You should exit onto Station road.
From there, keep following the road straight with a lovely view to the Chiltern hills ahead.
Past the pub, keep on the road as it curves right then follow it to the next curve which is left. There should be a stone wall on your left here. This will lead you to the bridge. Don’t go over the bridge, instead take the side road to the left of it and you should reach the river and trail. Once here, turn left.
Before reaching the river, I picked up a coffee. I was particularly tired today, I couldn’t figure out why, until a bit later on I remembered I had been awake since 1am. Turns out getting a coffee was a good call. Sort of. It got me up that hill I wasn’t expecting later on. It also triggered a poo. But that’s a story for later.
Start the river walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading
The walk starts along a nice riverside path. If you look to the right, you should see a house in the distance nestled between the gap in the trees.
The trail will then become more dirt like, lined by trees and bushes.
Followed by some fields and meadows. Look out for the big abandoned building on the other side of the river. I decided I might come back one day and claim it.
Past the bridge, once you reach a gate which says Goring Fishing Club, go in. Keep following the trail which is now surrounded by more bushes and trees, and then curves to the left taking you away from the river.
Leave the river for a bit
When you reach the junction, turn right. You will have some lovely views to undulating hills ahead to the left. You might also see some donkeys.
The trail will then lead you into some woods where the ascent begins.
Walk up the hill
In the wooded area, the trail will start to take you uphill. It’s not aggressive, so don’t panic. I was a little shocked though. I hadn’t seen a hill along the Thames Path before. It was quite novel.
Somewhere up here, keep an eye out for the pillbox below to the right.
The scenery along this bit I really enjoyed. A nice path surround by the trees on a hillside. Looking down to the river on the right did give me goosebumps. I hadn’t seen the river like this before. It dawned on me that I had only seen it from one perspective for the past 100 or so miles.
More woods and hills
Keep going, and at some point you will reach a sign saying ‘Hartley Steps, proceed with caution’. I could see a drop ahead, and proceeded with anticipation…
Then kind of laughed in my head a little. It was just a small hill. No steps. Not sure what I should be cautious about.
That is until I walked down, then a little further along saw the steps and steep hill going back up. This must be what it meant.
The road and poo
At the top you will reach a road. You will be following road for a little bit now. It was around here I got the urge to poo.
I didn’t want to be that person that poos on the trail. But maybe I would have to be. There had been walkers here and there. I might get caught. I decided to hold it in and hope it would retreat.
When you reach the end, turn right to walk through the village.
The poo wasn’t retreating and I was starting to sweat. To my relief I found a pub along here. Could I go in and poo without buying anything? I pondered for a moment. Not for long though. The poo urge was too intense.
They let me do it. Thank god.
Keep going along the road, then turn right at the sign ‘to the church’.
At the church, turn left to walk on a path through the graveyard, and then a little alley way.
Out of the alley, turn left. You should see a bridge over the hedge to the right. Head towards that.
Pangbourne
The bridge to enter Pangbourne is a toll bridge. I’ve not seen one of these in England before. I didn’t know they were a thing. (Toll bridge for vehicles that is, not people. You can walk over).
On the bridge you will see a big field (Pangbourne Meadows) to the left. That’s where you are heading. Somewhere over the bridge you should see a little gap in the hedge to the left, you can get to the meadows through there.
It will probably be a little more people heavy around here.
If you want to go to Pangbourne station, stay on the main road over the bridge. At the junction, turn right, then right again at the next junction. A bit further along you should see signs for the station on the left.
If continuing along the trail, walk to the other end of the meadows, passing by a barge that looks like it tells fortunes, and onto a little trail taking you into another meadow.
The halfway point in the walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading
Gradually you will go from big open space to more closed in, and onto a trail through tall grass lined with trees and bushes. Somewhere along here is the halfway point in the walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading.
I think I saw some giant hogweed along here. It’s that toxic plant. If you touch it you can get severe burns.
I took a photo and later found out my iPhone can identify it for me. If you swipe up on the photo it will tell you what it is. My iPhone says it is indeed giant hogweed.
You will next be in open meadow again, with barges here and there, and more impressive homes on the other side of the river.
Past the Mapledurham lock, when you reach a big neatly cut grass field, you will leave the river for a bit.
Road and residential
Turn right in this field, and through the gate at the end to get onto the road.
At the junction at the end of this road, the sign isn’t that helpful. It says turn left, but there are two lefts. You want to take the right left, up the hill
I zoned out a little for the next bit. There are quite a few turns. I wasn’t always sure I was going the correct way, then a little Thames Path sticker would show up to reassure me. Like this uphill. I wasn’t sure this was correct. Was I meant to take the other left? A little sticker up the hill let me know I was correct though.
Over the bridge, there is a left turn onto Hazel road. Stay on this road as it curves to the right, then left.
Somewhere down the hill is a right turn onto Skerritt Way. Then when you reach the dead end with houses, there is a trail to the left through the wooded area.
This trail will lead you up to the main road, where you turn left.
Welcome to Reading. It’s still a few miles to go though.
Walk back to the river
A short way along the main road, at the red bricked building, turn left. (If you want to go to Tilehurst Station, stay on the road and you will reach it).
After the left turn, this path will lead you back down to the river. Turn right when you reach it.
Along here it was a bit dark, and every so often I got the faint smell of weed. It felt a little like I was now just walking to get to the station…
The final stretch of the walk from Goring and Streatley to Reading
But it slowly started to get better. Past the boating area, and along a little more rugged riverside path, you will reach a less rugged path and meadows, and then the well maintain neatly cut grass.
More and more impressive houses show up on the other side of the river. It was all starting to feel a bit posh.
After the weed smelling dark section, it was like a ray of light and airiness. All quite lovely.
A few baby geese, and massive group of swans.
Walk to Reading Station
Follow the path under the bridge and keep going.
When you see the white bridge ahead, take the right turn a bit before it (see photo below). Follow the road to reach the main road, and you will see Reading Station ahead on the other side. It’s the massive building with glass and sloped roof.
Read next: Reading to Henley-on-Thames Day 9