Walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe: Day 1 NCP

What a day this was. I was up at 3am, travelled for 4 hours to reach Hunstanton, then walked 16+ miles along the coast to reach Burnham Overy Staithe. The day started out glorious. It was nice and sunny. Very windy, with the wind being behind me and pushing me along….

Looking along a very long wide stretch of light beige coloured sand at the start of the walk from. Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe. There are tiny specs of three people walking in the distance. The sky is light blue.

Then I went the wrong way. How does one go wrong when walking a coastal path? I walked nearly 2 miles more than I needed to, then faced relentless headwind. I was so fed up that I cheated for the next bit( I will explain more later), and gained myself back those 2 miles.

Because I cheated, and due to a current diversion on the coast path route, I ended up walking a solid 4 miles along the road. Once I reached the coast path again, I was filled with joy, which was short lived as I was soon battered by rain and more headwind.

What to expect when walking from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe

Starting from Hunstanton, the official Norfolk Coast Path route doesn’t quite go along the coast. It runs parallel to it instead. This seemed silly too me. I traveled all this way to walk along the coast, and I was going to do just that. If the tide is out, you have masses of beach, stretching as far as the eye can see. Plus, you also get to walk under the impressive Hunstanton Cliffs

The red and white Hunstanton cliffs looming above on the right, above a beach of sand with big rocks, on the walk towards Burnham Overy Staithe.

Looking across the sandy beach to the sea ahead, when walking from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe. There are a few people by the shoreline, and a dog running across the sand.

You will have numerous options to get off the beach, through the sand dunes to reach the official coast path, if you want to change things up.

You can walk along the beach for about 4 miles, before you need to turn in. This is very important. With the tide out, it will look like you can walk forever. This is trick. One that I fell for. Keep an eye on either a trail app map, or even google maps will do. Make sure to turn it (at the latest) when you are next to the Holme Bird Observatory, or nearing Thornham.

Looking along a long stretch of sandy beach with beige and black sand.

The coast path trail will then take you on a loop inland, to avoid the main road. This is where I cheated. I stayed walking on the main road to make back the time I lost on the sand.

When you are back on ‘coastal trail’, it’s quite lovely. With views of the marshes and resting boats all around.

The marshes with a small stream, and the ruins of a row boat resting half on the stream half in the marshes, on the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe.

A fishing boat sitting on the black mud river bed, with the marshes behind, on the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe.

Looking across the orange/brown marshes, with a stream running across, part way through the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe. There are a few boats strewn across the marshes. — I wonder, do these boats permanently live on the marshes. As in, are they stranded? How to people collect them?…Are they there for decoration?

Tips and other things too know

To walk along the beach from Hunstanton, make sure the tide is out (or on its way out) when you plan to do the walk. Check the tide times here.

Following on from above, be careful if the tide is on its way in. People have been caught out in this. It can be quite dangerous.
The Norfolk Coast Path isn’t signposted at some key junctions. I will show you which way to go when I describe the route further down.
Check the weather before heading out. Specifically the wind direction. If it’s coming from north, it will be very cold (it’s arctic wind), and you will have headwind for a solid chunk of the walk. Wind coming from the west is best. It will be behind you mostly, and give you a little push. South west wind is also good. It will mostly be behind you, however, there are a couple of section where you turn to face it.

If I was to do this walk from Hunstanton again, I would make it shorter. I think if there was no headwind, it didn’t rain, and the daylight hours were longer, the walk from Hunstanton all the way to Burnham Overy Staithe would have been fine. Battling all these things took away some of the enjoyment.

Looking over the tall beige grass, to a shed in the distance, on the walk between Hunstanton and Burnham Overy Staithe

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Logistics

Start: Hunstanton, Norfolk. Post code: PE36 5BQ.

Finish: Burnham Overy Staithe, Norfolk. Post code: PE31 8JE.
How to get there: Bus 26 coastliner runs from Kings Lynn to Hunstanton, then all along the coast to Burnham and beyond. Kings Lynn is on a main train line, with direct trains from London Kings Cross.
Distance: 16ish miles

Difficulty: Easy trail, moderate due to the length. Can be challenging if there is headwind.
Terrain: Sand, boardwalk, dirt, road, grass.
Dog friendly: The beach is dog friendly, but they must be kept out of the roped off areas. No stiles or livestock. Some roadside walking.

Option to shorten the walk: Yes. See below.
Elevation: Flat
Time of year: I walked from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe in the heart of winter

Public transport and options to shorten the walk

The number 36 Coastliner bus runs all along this stretch of coast, back to Hunstanton and Kings Lynn. So it’s easy to jump on it at any point to take you back to the start.

Options would be Thornham 6.5 miles, Brancaster 10 miles, Burnham Deepdale 12 miles.

Map for the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe

I didn’t follow the official coast path for some of the walk. You see how early on I look like I am walking in the sea, this is the beach. The official path is parallel to this inland a little. Also notice the random bit where I go out and then back, this is the exact thing you should not do. Make sure you turn in if you choose to walk on the beach!

Then between Thornham and Brancaster, the official trail goes inland on a loop. On the map you can see I stayed on the road because I was fed up. When I describe the route for the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe below, I will guide you on what you should do instead.

Amenities

Hunstanton is a bigger town, so will have lots of stuff. Lots of places to eat, a big Tesco etc. Along the walk there are a few pubs. The Orange Tree in Thornham (it looks fancy and like you need to book if you want to eat there), The Ship Hotel Pub in Brancaster, The Hero at Burnham Overy Staithe.

Parking

There is free street parking in Hunstanton. This is where I parked, then got the bus back from Burnham Overy Staithe at the end of the walk. There is also a paid car park (PE36 5EH), which has public toilets.

Accommodation

I stayed in Hunstanton at the Burlington Guest House. I would recommended it. It’s good value compared to everything else along the coast. It comes with a fridge, free coffee and milk, a dining/sitting room area, plus it was nice and warm and cosy inside. I spent three nights here, coming back after each day of walking.

If you are planning to spend each night along the coast, then in Burnham Overy Staithe I recommend The Hero. It’s a bed and breakfast style restaurant pub. The ratings are great. But it was out of my budget.

Route description: Walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe

Starting from Hunstanton, walk along the coastline to reach the cliffs. At this point you can walk on top of them or below them. I recommend below. You need the tide to be out for this though.

Looking down along the rocky beach, with the red and white stripped Hunstanton cliffs rising up on the right, at the start of the walk towards Burnham Overy Staithe. There are 4 people walking along the beach.

This bit starts of a little rocky, mixed in with patches of sand. As you walk further, with the gorgeous Hunstanton cliffs looming above to your right, you will be amongst some bigger rocks.

Looking straight towards the red and white stripped Hunstanton Cliffs, with the sandy rocky beach below, at the start of the walk towards Burnham Overy Staithe. There is the top of a lighthouse visible behind the cliffs.

A sandy beach with black boulders scattered about, and the red and white stripped Hunstanton cliffs on the other side, on the walk towards Burnham Overy Staithe. There are two people walking across the boulders ahead.

Navigating through them, you will be faced with pools of water here and there. To avoid them, you can walk nearer to the cliffs.

I chose to stay in them, as the sand was nice and soft. I was wearing my new barefoot hiking boots. Not the smartest idea to set off to walk 84 miles in barefoot shoes that your feet aren’t used to. I did have a spare pair of boots, with soft soles in my backpack to switch over to when my feet had had enough.

For now though, I wanted my feet to be on soft ground for as long as possible.

The long endless beach

The Hunstanton cliffs, are then replaced with grass covered sand dunes, and the beach becomes less rocky, until it’s pure sand. Stretching miles and miles ahead.

Looking across the sandy beach to the tall grass, and beach huts in shades of blue on the other side. There are tall green leafed trees rising up behind the beach huts.

A long wide stretch of sand leading into the distance as far as the eye can see. There are specs of people walking ahead in the distance.

If you choose to stay on the beach, you may encounter a few strips of water. If you have waterproof boots on, you will be fine. If not, your feet will get wet.

Streams of water running across the sandy beach, when walking from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe.

A long stream of water running along the long stretch of sandy beach. The sky is light blue.

Remember, you can get off the beach at various points. Look out for openings/little signs over by the sand dunes. These usually mark a way to get onto the path that runs parallel.

I really enjoyed this bit. There were quite a few people about, but the beach is so big that everyone is spread.

Looking across the light beige sand with striations of cream where the sand is being blown by the wind, early on in the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe.The sea is ahead, and there are a few people walking along the shoreline.

The issue I found was when I needed to pee. Out here on the sand, there is nowhere to hide. The wind was also pretty strong, so I didn’t feel safe that my pee wouldn’t be blown all over me.

When I couldn’t hold it anymore, I ventured over and hid behind the sand dunes to do my business.

Leave the beach

As I mentioned earlier, you need to make sure to come off the beach in time. It will look like you can walk forever, but you can’t. You need to turn it when you see these signs:

A puckered sandy beach meeting the tall grass ahead. There are two information boards by the grass.

Note: There are multiple signs like this along the beach. If you are looking on Google Maps, these ones are just before Thornham.

I made the mistake of staying on the beach. Once I hit a river, rather than turn back, I walked along it to find a way to cross.

Where the sand beach meets a river running across the screen. — This is what I was trying to cross

Up until now, the wind was behind me. It was wonderful. Changing direction, the wind was hitting me from the side and front. I persevered. Finding myself in sticky, sea bed mud. After spending far too long trying to get across the river, I begrudgingly turned back to find the path through the sand dune.

Now the wind was in front. It was horrible.

The official coast path

When you do walk through the sand dunes, you will be lead up some steps onto a boardwalk. This is where I saw my first Norfolk Coast Path sign. 5 miles in.

Looking down to an area of grass, leading up to a ridge ahead. There are a few people walking along a trail through the grass.

A wooden walkway, with a field of grass and marsh to the left. There is a trail signpost on the left side of the walkway, and a roped fence.

A river curving through the marshes, when walking between Hunstanton and Burnham Overy Staithe.

I also hadn’t escaped the headwind. Up here it was worse.

Pushing my way through, my hair was a big mess and all in my face, I was thirsty. I daren’t stop to drink though, as I’m pretty sure the wind would blow me over.

Keep following this main path, and you will be lead to a road, where you turn right.

A long straight path on a ridge, with grass leading down the side to the left towards the marshes. There are two people and a dog walking along the bottom of the ridge.

A long straight ridge trail, with grass down the sides and marsh land all around.

Looking across the marshes to a small hut on the other side of a river ahead.

A wooden Norfolk Coast Path sign pointing left and right, with a backdrop of marshland, on the walk between Hunstanton and Burnham Overy Staithe.

Then a short way along, there will be a trail on the left.

A corner with the road leading straight and a trail leading left. There is a grass patch and wooden trail signpost in the corner. — This is the trail on the left, off the road

Walk to Thornham

Once on this trail, the wind calmed down (or rather, I was sheltered from it somehow). For the first time in a few miles, I wasn’t fighting against it, and I started to enjoy the walk again.

An orange coloured path, lined with short green grass, and then tall beige grass on the left, and leafless bushes on the right.

Looking across the river, to a field of marsh and grass, with a cluster of villages houses on the other side, when walking between Hunstanton and Burnham Overy Staithe

Stay following the trail, then over the bridge at the T-junction, turn right and you will reach Thornham.

An orange path running across the screen with a wire fence and wooden trail signpost on the other side. — Turn right here

An orange path carving ahead, lined with grass and bushes on the right, and a wire fence and trees on the left.

Just before the houses, there is a an electricity thing. As there was no where else to sit, and my feet were now fed up with barefoot walking, I sat down on it. After having a snack, fixing my hair, and drinking some water, I changed into the other hiking boots.

When I set of walking again, it felt like I was walking on clouds. I decided that I would only wear these for the rest of the walk to Great Yarmouth.

Ok, so this is where there are no signs. When you reach the road with houses opposite, turn right, and stay on this road as it curves around.

Two parked cars and a road behind them, with a stone walled house on the other side. — Turn right here

A residential road, with a strip of grass on the right, and white walled house on the left.

When you reach the main road, with a grass triangle and red telephone box, turn left.

Looking along the road to where it split, with a green triangle grass island. There is a a red telephone box and post box in the island. There are houses on the other side of the road past the island. — Turn left past the green

Walk inland….or not

Stay on this road for a bit, then to follow the official trail, turn right onto Choseley Road (see photo below). You then need to walk along this road for a bit over 1mile to reach a trail on the left. Go along this, and keep going, over a couple of small roads. Then at the end turn left, and this will lead you to Brancaster.

A road leading ahead and curving left. There is a stone wall on the left side of the road, and houses on the right. There is a sign on the left side of the road pointing right for Cholseley. — This is where you should turn right

I did not do this, but instead stayed on the main road, which is the more direct route to Brancaster….And I do not feel guilty one bit.

The road isn’t very interesting, but it’s easy. Which is what I wanted after fighting with the wind for so long. It does have the national speed limit, but at least there is a path running alongside it the whole way. So I was somewhat safe.

A long straight road, with a strip of grass and thin trail on the right side. There road is lined with hedges on both sides.

A titchwell coat of arms sign sitting on a pole on a strip of grass, with a wall behind it, and the rooftop of a house on the other side of the wall. The wall is stone art the bottom, then wooden fence above, and topped with a neatly cut green hedge.

The Diversion

At the time of writing, the Brancaster Boardwalk is closed for repairs. This was not good for me, as it meant more roadside walking.

If you walked the official way to reach Brancaster, when you reach the main road, continue straight across onto Broad lane, and this should lead you to the official Coast Path on your right.

If the boardwalk is still closed, then just stay on the main road heading east, and you can join the official path at Brancaster Staithe.

The road leading past signs which say 'Brancaster Staithe, slow down'. There is a red car driving along the road ahead.

Back onto the trail

If you had to divert, then once in Brancaster Staithe, take a left at the medieval looking Brancaster Staithe sign, and walk towards the boats.

A medieval Brancaster Staithe sign on the grass, next to a 30 speed limit road sign. the road is on the right, leading towards terraced houses ahead.

Looking across the road with lots of small boats sitting on the grass, and the marshes in the distance.

I needed to sit down again, and there is a lovely looking circular bench on the green, but the green had ropes and I wasn’t sure if I was allowed to pass. So I kept going and found a bench by the boats.

After another snack, and some more water, I set off for the final stretch.

Just past the boats, there is a coast path sign directing you to the right. It told me than Brancaster Overy Staithe was 4.5 miles away. Further than I thought. I wish I hadn’t seen that.

A wooden trail sign pointing right for Burnham Overy Staithe, on the walk from Hunstanton. There is a wooden fence behind it, and boats on the ground in the distance.

Looking across the muddy river bed to a fishing boat and sheds and fishing gear on the other side, on the walk between Hunstanton and Burnham Overy Staithe.

A short way along this path, at the end, turn left. Then look out for a sign on the brick thing which says ‘all trails continue along this path’. Follow it.

A wooden trail sign in a bush on the side of the road, pointing in all directions. There is a brick walled shed on the other side, with a white van parked outside, and a blue falling apart row boat. — Turn left here

The road on the left and a brick pillar on the right next to a rusty shed. There is a black sign on the brick pillar pointing right for the footpath trails. — Turn right here

The final stretch of the walk between Hunstanton and Burnham Overy Staithe

The path along here is quite lovely. A dirt path, with marshes and old looking boats to the left. I was so happy to be off the road finally. 4 miles of roadside walking is too long.

An orange trail curving ahead, lined with neatly cute grass on the right and tall messy grass on the left, with the marshland on the other side.

Looking across the marshland with strips of water, and a small boat resting in the river ahead, near the end of the walk from Hunstanton to Burnham Overy Staithe.

An orange walking trail, with a bench and half a boat as a roof on the right side. There is a beige hedge behind the bench.

You will be lead onto a ridge type path, where you now begin a semicircle loop (the significance of this will come soon).

A dirt trail leading ahead then curving right, lined with grass, and surrounded by marshland.

It’s a bit more exposed along here, which is noticeable if it’s windy. Which it was. I could see the houses of Brancaster Overy Staithe in the distance, which never seemed to be getting any closer.

Looking across there brown and grey coloured tall grass to some buildings way in the distance.

Stay on the main path as it starts to curve.

As the path continues to curve, I found myself facing directly into the wind. It also started to rain. At this point I had been walking 15ish miles. I was tired. It was getting dark. Every step was a fight with the elements.

Follow the windmill to reach Burnham Overy Staithe

You should start to see a windmill over to your left. This is where you want to head towards. So when you reach the junction (where the coast path sign is missing), turn left towards the windmill.

Looking across the marshland to a black and white windmill on the right in the distance.

The grass ridge trail curving to the left, with a wooden trail sign on the curve. — Stay on the ridge to the left here

The grass trial leading through a gap in a hedge, with a field on the other side, and a black and white windmill on the other side of the field. There is a learning wooden trail signpost on the right before the hedge.

The path will then lead you parallel to the road for a bit, then when you get onto the road, turn left. I have no more photos as it was now dark.

A short way along this road, you will pass a coast path sign on the left. However, to end the walk here, keep going to reach the pub.

The bus stop is in front of it. It’s a bench, with no bus stop sign. The markings on the ground should give it away though.

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