Walk from Orford to Snape: Suffolk Coast Path Day 3

If I could sum up the walk from Orford to Snape in one word, it would be ‘aggressive’.

By the end of the walk, my legs were covered in stings, I had a swollen forearm from a horsefly bite, and splinters in my feet. I was glad when it was over.

A small white motor boat sitting in the middle of the river, with a wooden walkway next to it, on the walk from Orford to Snape. There is a sailboat behind it, with its sails down.

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What to expect on the walk from Orford to Snape

About half of the walk from Orford to Snape is along a ridge surrounded by marsh. Fully exposed, very overgrown in places, tough under foot, and very scratchy. I can’t say wether or not this is tamed from time to time, and I just caught it during its wild period.

Looking across the grass marshland to the river, with a few sailboats dotted about, on the walk from Orford to Snape.

A grass ridge leading straight ahead, with the water to the right.

A blue sailboat sitting just off centre in the river, on the walk between Orford and Snape. There are ripples in the river.

Some sections I’m pretty sure will be flooded after rain (which I will show when I describe the route below, with an alternate route option), and there is precarious walking on slopped rocks.

A grass and bush bank on the left meeting the river on the right, with planks of stone between the two.

I didn’t see a Suffolk Coast Path sign until nearer then end, when I gave up and walked to the road. Which has me thinking that the official route bypasses all the nonsense.

Logistics

Start: Orford, Suffolk. IP12 2NU.
Finish: Snape, Suffolk. IP17 1SP.
Distance: 11 miles.
Time: 4h.
Difficulty: Moderate due to terrain.
Dog friendly: Due to ground nesting birds, dogs must be kept on lead for spring/summer months. No stiles. No livestock, but a few loose horses.
Time of year: I walked from Orford to Snape in early August.

Amenities

In Orford there is a village shop, and Pinneys of Orford which is a deli specialising in smoked fish and oysters. A few pubs, coffee shop, bakery and chocolate shop.

In Snape, there is Snape Maltings, which has a cafe and deli. There are a few pubs about too.

Nothing along the route.

Public transport

One bus a day in Orford (to Ipswich), last I checked it runs at 6:30 am…so useless. In Snape there is a bus which gets you to Wickham Market train station. Last I checked, they run every 20min, but last one is just after 3pm.

Accommodation

In Orford I stayed in the Jolly Sailor. I chose it because it was the cheapest. A standard pub room, no complaints.

In Snape I stayed at The Golden Key. The room was very nice. Almost bigger than my flat (not quite, but you get the picture). It was also the cheapest I could find (but still not cheap). Could have done with more toiletries. For the price, I would expect some moisturiser, and more than a sample size of body wash.

Map for the walk from Orford to Snape

Read day 2 here: Bawdsey to Orford

Route description: How to walk from Orford to Snape

From Orford, the start of the trail is next to Pinneys of Orford, next to the front door. Follow this and it will lead you to a ridge type trail where you will remain for the next 6 miles or so.

It was quite lovely at first, although the sun was really out today, and I felt very exposed, and a bit annoyed that I wouldn’t be anywhere near the sea today. It was perfect swim weather.

A grass trail ridge leading ahead to a gate, with the river to the right. There are people walking along the ridge ahead.

Looking across the marshland with a strip of river head, with a sailboat in the middle.

The never ending ridge

After some time, I found it to be a bit tedious. The trail underfoot was mostly matted down hay type grass, and at times quite overgrown and very scratchy. Little sharp bits were invading my boots. I stopped once to pick them out, but then realised there was no point as they all just came back in.

At one point there was a tighter bush with scratchy things for the whole body.

A barely visible trail through the tall grass ridge with small flowers.

Out of the Orford vicinity, I didn’t pass a single person. It didn’t surprise me. Who would willingly try to walk though this.

Once I started to see some sort of civilisation in the distance I became quite excited. I might be out of this soon. But it wasn’t as simple as that. The trail curves, and I never seemed to get any closer.

I saw those old sail boats again from yesterday. I think they might have had an argument, they weren’t as close to each other today.

Two sailboats with their sails down, on the river.

A moment of ease

Once I reached the civilisation, I realised it was on the other side of the river. And I was still stuck on this ridge. Over there is where I would be heading tomorrow. The only way to get there is to follow the river all the way to the end, to Snape, where I’m heading today, and then back.

Looking across the grass bank to the river filled with various boats, on the walk from Orford to Snape.

The good news is, the overgrowth had calmed down, and I used this opportunity to have my lunch.

After a bit more ridge and some horses, then through the gate, I was presented with some impossible overgrowth. I refused to do it. Then realised there is a trail to the right.

A wonky metal gate with a mass of overgrowth on the other side.

I made my way down, passing by an empty shack bar with bizarre outdoor living room. As in, sofas with a table in the middle. It was a bit creepy, so I moved on quick.

A wooden shelter shack, with bunting and a flag flying.

At the next gate, there was trail signage, but nothing for the Suffolk Coast Path. I realised I hadn’t seen any Suffolk Coast Path signs all day. Was I going the correct way? I had been hugging the river all day, so the only other way would have been to bypass all this nonsense, and follow the road. Could I have avoided all this? Well, it was too late now.

So, at this gate there are two options. Through the gate or left. Left would have been the easier route, to the road. I contemplated taking it. I didn’t know what was in store for me through the gate.

Unfortunately, I decided to go through the gate.

More overgrowth

It started out alright. But I was on edge, waiting for it to hit me.

And then it did.

A mass of overgrowth of grass, bush, and stinging nettles.

A mass bush area full of stinging nettles. There was no way around it, and I wasn’t going back. So, after some swearing, I sucked it up and carefully navigated my way through. Like in the movies, when robbers navigate those alarm lasers.

Out the other end, it was nice again, although I wasn’t enjoying myself. Then the ridge becomes blocked by more impossible overgrowth. The map says I have to go that way, but I refused. Luckily, to the left was another trail I could take. This would eventually lead to the road, and by now that’s exactly what I wanted.

The river on the right and grassy bank on the left, partway through the walk from Orford to Snape.

A sign in the middle of the overgrown trail.

A trail snaking through the tall green crops.

Walk to the road

Through some tall stuff, and across some fields, at the very end I took a left, then a bit further along, turned right through a gate.

A grass trail leading through the tall hay grass.

I followed the trail all the way as it curved, to reach some shelter under trees. This was the first time I had been out of the sun all day. So I stood here for a moment, relishing the cooler air. That is until I saw a horsefly on my arm. I shooed it off, but it was too late. It got me. So I moved on before he came back.

Out of the trees I took a right, which led me to an opening in a gate to the right and under the trees again. This led to a track type road, and then the main road where I turned left.

More road

I never thought I’d say this, but I felt such relief to be on a road. The road did go on for some time, but I was fine with that, staying straight at all the junctions.

As I got nearer to Snape, I decided to head back to the river, for the last stretch. Would I regret this? Let’s see.

(If there has been a lot of rain recently, I think the next bit will be flooded, so stay on the road).

There is a trail to get back to it, passed the triangle junction thing. Interestingly, there was Suffolk Coast Path signage here. I thought I was cheating being on the road, but it turns out I was supposed to be here.

The next challenge

This trail will lead all the way back to the river. And I was pleased to find that it was a proper nice trail…until it wasn’t.

A small blue row boat sitting on the river, next to a wooden walkway, on the walk between Orford and Snape.

A sank bank on the left with the river on the right. There is a bushy bank leading up the left side o0f the sand.

The first thing I noticed was that the water seemed to be the same level as the path. And I’m 99% sure this will be flooded sometimes.

Then the path sort of disappeared, and the only way through was to precariously navigate some sloping rocks.

A blue boat with red sail on the shoreline.

It was seemingly impossible, but I did it, so it is possible. Just very precarious.

The final stretch of the walk from Orford to Snape

Out the other end, and after some more nice path walking, I missed the turn. Luckily I didn’t go too far before checking my map. It’s a right through a narrow hedge path, with a little car park sign.

A trail leading ahead, surrounded by overgrown messy grass.

A wooden sign saying 'car park' nestled in the bushes.

A narrow dirt trail leading through the muddle of bushes, with a wooden car park sign on the left.

At the car park, I kept to the right, through some fern, then onto a wooden walkway.

A narrow trail leading through a mass of bracken, on the walk from Orford to Snape.

A wooden walkway running between two crop fields, on the walk from Orford to Snape.

After lots of wood, it’s more path, past some silver leafed bushes, across a field, and more dirt path to reach the road.

A trial leading through tall grass and bushes, with silver leaves.

A long straight, wide, trail leading through the field, towards some trees on the other side.

I made it.

Right leads into Snape. Snape Maltings is first. I had read about this place. A famous concert hall, with cafes and independent shops. I would come back later though. First things first. Get to my accommodation, shower, and lay down.

Looking across the road to a large budding covered in ivy in Snape. There are cars parked outside, and a sign that says 'Snape Maltings'.

Looking through the arch in the middle of a large brick house.

Looking along the river, with sailboats moored to the right side, and a house with ivy covering one of the walls.

Where I was staying was still a bit of a walk down the road. I felt such joy when I saw it. Then there was dread. It was closed. All the lights were off. I walked all around trying to find a way in, but it was empty.

I got my phone out. There was no signal. I checked my emails for my booking, which thankfully loaded, and saw that check in was until 3pm. It was now ten past three.

I was livid. Yes I should have checked, but also, who closes check in at 3pm? I’ve never heard of such a thing, and for the price of a room here, there should be a bigger window for getting in.

About 30min later I did get in, after some walking around with my phone in the air to get signal so I could call someone.

Read next: Snape to Dunwich Day 4