Walk from Sparsholt to Goring and Streatley: Day 3 The Ridgeway

At 21 miles, the walk from Sparsholt to Goring and Streatley is the longest section of the Ridgeway Trail. I knew it would be the longest day, but I didn’t realise it would be this long when I headed out, and I’m glad about that.

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Looking down across the vast countryside fields at the start of the walk from Sparsholt to Goring and Streatley. the sun is shining down, creating a golden glow.

A wide dirt path winding straight ahead, lined with a hedge on the right, and big bushes to the left, when walking between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley.

Despite the length, I actually didn’t find it too bad*. Probably because I zoned out for a lot of it….

*The last bit of the walk into Goring and Streatley wasn’t so great. I explain more in the route description further down.

What to expect when walking from Sparsholt to Goring and Streatley

I would say that today was characterised by long endless trails. You know the kind where they lead straight ahead, way into the distance, further than you can see.

A long straight stretch of grass trail, through the grass field, with a wire fence to the left.

A long straight dirt trail through the grass, with a view to the green fields in the distance.

A wide and long straight grass trail, with overgrown grass on either side, and a few bushes and trees dotted about.

I must stress though, that although I zoned out, that’s not to say I didn’t enjoy it. In fact, I found today’s walk between Sparsholt and Goring to be the most beautiful. Vast sweeping views with undulating hills and impressive valleys.

Looking down into the valley and undulating hills, on the walk between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. As far as the eye can see are fields of green, with groups of trees scattered about.

Looking down the undulating hillside into the valley of Devils Punch bowl, on the walk between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley.

A big bird flying in the sky. The sky is blue with a white cloud.

Looking down into a green ditch, surrounded by bushes and trees with red leaves.

There is also a county crossing today, from Oxfordshire to Berkshire. It’s only a brief entry, as the Ridgeway takes you back into Oxfordshire on Day 4.

In contrast to the walk yesterday, there wasn’t as much hard ground nonsense. Ok, there was some, but it was a sensible amount.

There is also another big road crossing on this one. The A34. You go through a tunnel under it, so that’s not the issue. It’s more the noise, reminding you that you are not quite as remote as the rest of the walk would have you believe.

Map for the walk from Sparsholt to Streatley and Goring

You can find my more detailed map for the walking route from Sparsholt to Streatley and Goring on Alltrails. You can also download a GPX file from there.

Logistics

Start: Sparsholt, Oxfordshire. OX12 9PL.
Finish: Goring and Streatley Station, Berkshire RG8 0ES.
Distance: 21 miles (20 if you stop in Streatley).
Time: 7 hours
Difficulty: Moderate due to the length
Elevation gain: 572m
Terrain: Grass, dirt trail, mud, road.
Dog friendly: No stiles. No loose livestock. No dog friendly accommodation in Sparsholt.
Amenities: The is nothing along the whole route between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley, unless you detour. One restaurant in Streatley. Goring has more options with cafes, restaurants, Tesco, public toilets.

Public transport

Nothing in Sparsholt. Goring has a train station (Goring and Streatley station), with direct trains to London Paddington (or indirect with a change at Reading). Journey time 45min-1h.

Accommodation

There is a YHA in Streatley. It is the cheapest option along the whole Ridgeway, however, I didn’t spend the night, as it was still cheaper for me to get a train home. If you want something a bit more than a youth hostel, then there are a number of other options around Goring and Streatley.

In Sparsholt, I stayed at The Star Inn. It’s the only option there.

Tips and other things to know

Once you reach the road, as you are approaching the end, it’s a chunky bit of walking to actually reach the centre of Streatley. Goring is the town next door, just over the bridge, where you will find the train station.
If you are doing the walk between Sparsholt and Streatley and Goring in the darker months, leave early. It’s going to be a long day.
Whilst there are some more sheltered sections, most of this route is quite exposed. So even if it’s summer, make sure to take a windproof jacket.
There is no where to buy anything along the route, so if you spent the night in Sparsholt, you will have to have something packed ie freeze dried meal. Breakfast is available at the accommodation.
Of the three days of walking so far, this one had the most missing signs. It was still very well signposted though.

A black wooden trail signpost, pointing ahead and back along the ridgeway between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. The sign is nestled within a bush with green leaves.

Route description: How to walk from Sparsholt to Goring and Streatley

When I woke up today, I didn’t want to leave. Yesterday was tough on the feet, and I was now facing the longest walking day of the route. I so desperately wanted to spend another night. Take a day of rest. But alas, this place was too expensive for that, so I set off early instead.

In contrast to yesterday, it was a glorious day. As I made my way back to where I left the Ridgeway, the sun was shining and creating a gorgeous glow across the hills.

Looking across the large crop field, with hills in the distance when walking out of Sparsholt, on the way towards Goring and Streatley. The sun is shining down, creating a golden glow.

A road leading straight ahead, with a hedge on the right, and overgrown grass verge on the left. There is a big tree ahead on the left, with red leaves.

Back onto the Ridgeway

When you reach the Ridgeway, turn left and follow it up the hill. Keep on the main path which is first lined with trees and bushes, but then opens up for some glorious views.

A wooden trail signpost, pointing left and right along the ridgeway, on the way towards Goring and Streatley, after leaving Sparsholt. Behind the sign is a large green crop field.

A grass trail leading uphill through the bushy trees, with green and red leaves.

There is now a nice long grassy path, before you reach a gravelly road path where you continue straight.

A long straight and wide grass trail, lined with taller unkept grass.

A gravel path corner, lined with unkempt grass.

The next junction you will reach is Sparsholt Firs. Turn right here, then at the main road, cross over and through the car park on the other side.

The dirt path leading onto the road, which is lined with bushes and trees. — Turn right here

A black wooden trail signpost, pointing the way along the ridgeway, and to Sparsholt.

Looking across the road to a car parking area. There is a can parked ahead.

Devil’s Punchbowl

Keep going straight, on a path that has potential to be a bit muddy and wet, then when the trees disappear, you will get a proper view to your left.

A dirt path with puddles, and lined with unkept grass. There are trees with red leaves ahead.

A big puddle in the middle of a muddy trail, leading onto a grass trail, with a view to a large green field on the left. — Stay straight here

Looking across the grass field, to a hill in the distance with some trees on top.

What you have here is a deep dry valley, known as Devil’s Punchbowl and Crowhole Bottom. It’s pretty cool, but I was glad I didn’t have to walk down into it (as that would mean walking back out).

Looking over the tall grass to the valley and undulating hillside, when walking towards Goring and Streatley from Sparsholt.

The trail continues straight ahead, grassy and soft, undulating into the distance. All the while with that wonderful view to your left.

Looking down into the valley and vast view to green fields in the distance on the walk from Sparsholt to Goring and Streatley. There are trees lining some of the fields in the distance.

Keep going straight

You will then reach the trees, and transition back onto harder ground, which can be a little muddy in places. Keep going straight at all the junctions, in and out of the trees, until you reach the main road.

A trail and road junction, with the trail ahead leading between trees and bushes. There is a wooden trail signpost on the left corner, pointing ahead, back, and left.

A wide dirt path, lined with unkept grass and bushes. There is a trail signpost on the left, pointing ahead, back, and right, on the walk between Sparsholt, Goring and Streatley.

A wooden bench sitting in overgrown grass, looking past a wire fence to a view of green grass fields.

A wide dirt toad, lined with tall grass, and a few trees ahead with red leaves. There are farm buildings visible at the end of the road, and a hill in the distance.

A rugged dirt and gravel road leading straight ahead, with neatly cut grass on either side, and tall neat hedges on the left. Some rooftops are visible over the hedges. There are more rugged hedges and a big tree on the right. — The road is just past these houses

More trees and more views

If you are planning to break up the full Ridgeway into shorter days, if you turn left at the road, then left at the next side road, you will reach the Court Hill centre which has hostel style accommodation and camping.

Continuing on with the trail, turn right at the road, then take the first left with a sign for the ‘Whitehouse’.

A road running diagonally from left to right, with a gravel road leading off it to the left. There ids a large field in the corner between the two ahead.

A wooden trail signpost pointing left and back, and a sign with a picture of a large house in white. Below the house is says 'whitehouse'.

Continue on the dirt road, passing the Whitehouse Farm (I can confirm that the house is indeed white), then down the hill and through some trees to reach a junction.

A gravel road leading ahead, with a grass verge to the left leading to a field. There is a big wooden pole on the verge, with a sign on it.

A wide dirt path leading down the hill, with tall bushes and trees to the left, a grass verge and short hedge to the right, and crop fields beyond the hedge.

A dirt road curing ahead, lined with tall bushes and trees.

A split in the dirt road, with grass in the split, and some trees ahead. — Turn right here

This is one of the junctions where there was no signage (or I just missed it). You want to turn right. This will lead you back out into the open with more views.

You will now be on a wide grassy path, which you keep following for some time, with those grand views to your left.

A thin dirt trial leading straight through the grass, lined with fields on wither side.

Looking down the gill to the undulating fields, and trees in the distance on the walking route between Sparsholt, Goring, and Streatley.

A grass trail on the left and path of dead grass on the right. There is a bushy tree ahead, and wooden trail signpost on the right side of the dead grass. — Keep to the left here

A grass trail leading straight ahead, with a hillside crop field ahead to the left.

Walk to the Loyd Wantage Monument

The grass path then leads to harder path for a short distance, to reach the road. At the road, slightly to the right and opposite is a car park. Go through it, and then take the right trail next to the gate.

A gravel dirt road leading ahead, lined with grass verges. There are some trees with red leaves ahead, and a wire fence on the right.

A gravel road leading to a car parking area. There is one white car parked on the right. Beyond the car park are fields.

A gravel path leading ahead on the left through a gate, and a dirt trail on the right through the unkempt grass. — Take the trail on the right

This will lead you to the monument of Robert Loyd Lindsay (later known as Lord Wantage of Lockinge). He was a colonel, and a founding member of the British Red Cross.

The Lord Wantage Monument standing tall with a cross on top, on the walk from Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. It is surrounded by grass. There is a bush on the right. There is a backdrop of blue sky, with white clouds.

More straight and the halfway point in the walk between Sparsholt and Goring

Past the monument, keep following the path, then when you reach the junction at the trees, stay straight/a bit to the right (keeping the trees to your left).

A thin dirt trail on the right, leading ahead through the grass. There is a wooden trail signpost on the grass on the right. It points ahead, back, and left. There are trees in the distance with leaves in shades of orange, red, and green.

A junction in the dirt gravel trail. There are tall forest trees ahead on the left.

For a long time now, there are no major turns. You keep going straight at all the junctions.

The trail is mostly grassy, a little bit muddy, interspersed with a small amount of harder ground. Somewhere along here is the half way point in the walk.

A dirt trail through the unkept grass, leading straight ahead. There are a couple of puddles on the right.

A long dirt and muddy trail leading straight ahead, surrounded by unkempt grass.

A gravel path junction, surrounded by tall, messy, unkempt grass. There is a puddle in the path, and big trees with red leaves lining the path ahead on the left.

A dirt path leading to a grass trail. It is lined with green bushes on the right. — Stay straight here

A long straight grass trail, lined with unkempt messy grass, with a view to fields in the distance, on the walk between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley.

When you reach the road junction, go straight across and through the car park, then continue going straight some more.

A large muddy area of ground surrounded by trees, with fallen red leaves on the ground. There is a split in the paths ahead, with grass in the corner. There is a black bin on the left. Through the trees ahead is a view to fields and a blue sky with white clouds.

Lunch and more straight

At all the junctions, stay straight, going from dirt trail, to grass, to dirt path, and grass again.

Muddy dirt trails through the unkept grass, with a trail signpost on the left, and trees with red and brown trees ahead on the left. There is a view to fields on the right. — Did I mention to stay straight?

Looking over the wire fence to a view of fields of green down the hill.

Somewhere along here, I realised I was hungry. But I was now quite exposed and the wind was showing itself. I decided to hold out for a sheltered spot. Only, there wasn’t any. I tested out a few of the small trees I passed, but nothing was suitable. This never ending trail, became more never ending.

When I reached the road, with a car park opposite, I rushed over perched behind a few of the cars, trying to find an angle where the wind wasn’t blowing me away. There wasn’t one.

Looking across the road with a large car parking area, with lots of parked cars. The car park is surrounded by fields.

Shame, as the views here are nice, so would have been a perfect place for a break. Looking ahead, I could see trees in the distance. I decided I would have lunch over there, so continued on.

A large grassy area, surround by fields, and a view to trees in the distance.

I passed a guy who asked me where I was heading. I said Streatley. He let out a gasp and proclaimed ‘that’s 6 miles away’.

I was both pleased and annoyed at this statement. On the one hand, 6 miles was nothing. It meant I had done the bulk of the walk, and was almost on the home stretch. On the other hand, I thought I only had 4 miles to go. I didn’t want to check who was right. I decided it was me, and continued on to find shelter for lunch.

Shelter and the A34

At the trees, you want to go onto the path straight through them and down the hill. By now the A34 noise is pretty loud. Not the ideal place to take a lunch break. The ground was also a little muddy and wet. But I was too hungry to care, so had my lunch standing up sheltered by the trees. Again.

A large area of short grass, leading to and area of trees with bright orange leaves. There is a road sign in front of the trees.

A wide dirt trail covered in fallen red and orange leaves, on the walk between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. The trail is surrounded by trees with green, orange and yellow leaves.

Further down the tree covered hill, you will reach the tunnel under the A34. I have been through a number of long creepy tunnels in my time, and was expecting something similar. However, this wasn’t like that at all. Nice and short, with a mural on the side.

Looking through a dark tunnel too the green leafy trees on the other side.

Out the other end, and up a short hill, follow the path as it curves to the left.

A dirt trial through the grass, leading ahead, and lined with bushes with orange and green leaves.

More of the same

It’s now more of the same, straight across all the junctions. Going from grass to dirt trail, to more grass, dirt road, and then road.

A dirt trail leading straight ahead, lined with tall unkempt grass, and a few bushes

A grass trail leading straight ahead, lined with taller unkept grass. There are a few puddles on the trail.

A junction in the trail, with grass in the corners, and some bushes and trees lining the trail ahead.

A long straight gravel trail, lined with grass on the left and a grass bank on the right when walking towards Goring and Streatley from Sparsholt. There is a view to fields ahead, and a line of trees surrounding one of the fields.

You will be surrounded by a mix of fields, views, and occasional trees. Then you will pass by a horse racing place.

A black wooden trail signpost, pointing ahead, back, left, and right, when walking between Sparsholt, Goring, and Streatley. The signpost is in front of a big bush with green leaves and red berries.

A long wide dirt road leading ahead, and lined with neatly cut grass on the left, and slightly messier grass on the right. There are a few puddles in the road.

A muddy, black, dirt road leading straight ahead. It is lined with grass on both sides, with a wire fence on the left side, leading onto a large green grass fields. There are trees lining the right side.

A wooden fence with a sign saying 'caution racehorses', with a large green grass field beyond it.

Past the horse racing area you will reach a junction, where for the first time in a while, you make a turn.

Turn left.

A road leading straight ahead, with grass on the right, and a wooden trial signpost on the road. There is a junction in the road ahead.

A black wooden trail signpost, with six arrows, with one pointing left to walk to Streatley. — Follow the sign to Streatley

A gravel path on the left, and a grass verge on the right, with a big wooden information board on the grass.

Follow the dirt trail, as it takes you gently downhill. It then levels out a little, before taking you back up.

Strips of dirt and gravel trail with strips of grass, winding ahead, lined with tall grass on the right and a wooden fence on. the left. There is a view to a wall of grass hill ahead.

A gravel path curving ahead, near the end of the walk from Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. The path has a grass strip on the right, and is lined with bushes and trees with green and red leaves on both sides.

A black wooden trail signpost pointing left and right along the ridgeway between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. It is sitting in tall grass, with a leafless tree behind it, and a green grass field beyond that.

A dirt path lined with tall grass, and bushes and trees with green and red leaves.

A dirt gravel path on the left, leading ahead, with tall unkept grass lining the right. — Stay straight

A dirt trail with a strip of grass through the middle and lined with unkempt messy grass, near the end of the walk between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. The trail leads straight ahead.

At the curved fork junction, take the right.

A fork in the dirt path, both leading uphill, with grass and a road sign in the middle of them. — Take the right here

Keep following the main path straight, which at this point is mostly tree and bush lined. Then at the next fork, take the left.

Two narrow strips of trail with grass in between, lined with bushes with green and red leaves, near the end of the walk between Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley. There is a view to a field ahead, with trees lining the other side.

Two strips of gravel trail, with a gras strip in between. The trails are lined with tall bushes and trees.

A wodę grave path leading ahead, and a small trail leading off it to the left. There is a wooden trail signpost in the corner of the junction. There are tall bushes on the left side. — Remember to stay straight at any cross paths

A split in the gravel dirt trail, with tank bushes in the corner ahead. There is a road sign on the left side, and a trail signpost in the middle of the junction. — This is where you take the left

Nearly there….sort of

Continuing on, you have one more small uphill, then when you reach the U bend, take the left.

A dirt trail winding straight ahead, lined with tall bushes with green leaves.

Looking across a field to a road of bushes on the other side, with a rooftop peaking above on the other side, near the end of the walk from Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley.

A junction in the dirt road, with a mass of bushes and trees in the junction split. — Take the left here

This will lead you onto a wide dirt road, with wonderful views across the hills to your right.

A long straight dirt road, lined with tall green bushes.

Looking down the hill, over the tall grass and bushes, to the fields below and hill rising up on the other side, near the end of the walk from Sparsholt and Goring and Streatley.

A gravel dirt road leading ahead, with a view down the hill to the right on the fields and hill rising up on the other side. There are some trees lining the road ahead.

I knew I was nearing the end of the walk into Streatley and Goring, and would be on proper road soon, so I checked the train times. There would be a train in 40min. I checked Google maps which told me it would take me 40min to walk to the station. That was too close for my liking, so I picked up the pace.

The halfway point along the Ridgeway

The path will lead down through some woods briefly. You will find some signage here telling you how far to reach Ivinghoe Beacon. This is the first one telling you this since the start at Overton Hill. I wondered why there weren’t more of these, then realised it says 44 miles. That’s about halfway. Makes sense to mark the key milestones.

A dirt road leading g through the tall trees and bushes with green and orange leaves.

It also said Streatley was 2 miles away. That didn’t excite me so much, as I knew it would be roadside walking all the way there.

Walk to Streatley

As you emerge from the woods, you will find some civilisation in the form of a quaint thatched roofed cottage. Turn left here, and just follow the road. There isn’t really a pavement or walking path here. So you will be on the road for a little bit, first lined with trees, and then another cluster of houses.

A thatched roofed cottage, with a neat round hedge in front. There is a small country road in front of the cottage, and a black wooden trail signpost in front. There is a big tree trunk on the right side of the frame.

A road leading straight ahead, through the tunnel of trees;. There are fallen orange leaves lining the side of the road.

A road leading ahead, then curving left. The road is lined with hedges on the left and hedges ahead on the right. There are houses visible past the headless ahead. There is a big tree with red leaves hanging over the hedge on the left.

Once I had 20min to go until the train left, I checked my time again. I was still 20min walk away. I made up no time. If I missed that train, it was an hour wait until the next one. It then started raining. So I broke into a cross between a fast walk and a jog.

When you reach the main road, turn right, and keep going. You are now in Streatley.

A grass field on the left, with a wooden fence surrounding it. There is a wooden trail signpost in front of the fence, and a white wall house ahead.

Walk to Goring and Streatley station

I don’t have photos for the remainder of the walk. As at this point, the sun had set, and it was dark. The rain was also hammering down, and I was now running. I wasn’t about to spend an hour sitting in the rain, so I had to make that train.

The turning to get to Goring, is the second left turn after the big road sign. It’s at a big cross junction.

If you are spending the night here, stay straight at the big junction, and you will reach the YHA.

To get to Goring and the station, after the left turn, continue straight and over the bridge. Stay on the main road as it does gentle curve right then left.

There are a couple of ways to get to the station from here. I took a right at the chippy, going through the shopping sheltered area. Then stayed straight passed all the houses. At the T end, it’s left, and then straight all the way to the next road, where you cross straight over. This takes you to the railway tracks. The entrance to the station is on the right.

Final thoughts

Imagine this, after hiking for 20 miles (as well as nearly 30miles over the previous 2 days), you start running. Running on road, with hard hiking boots, and a heavy backpack…

Getting back home from the station was the hardest part. This is when the pain set in. The backpack had left me with bruised hips and a lump of swelling on my lower back. My feet were on fire with every step. I decided that I wouldn’t be back tomorrow. I needed a day to recover.

As it would turn out, the weather stopped me from returning to Goring and Streatley to continue walking along the Ridgeway. Heavy rain and thunderstorms. I kept an eye on the forecast for a break. After a week of waiting, I got fed up and found somewhere else to go hiking in the meantime….Then I got injured, and had to wait some more.