How to walk from Abingdon to Wallingford: Thames Path Day 6

Todays walk is from the historic market town of Abingdon to the other historic town of Wallingford. This was my least favourite day so far. At 14ish miles it wasn’t the longest, but it felt it….

What to expect on the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford

On the walk between Abingdon and Wallingford, although you are next to the river, for a lot of it, you can’t see it, or can barely see it. Lots of tall grass, bushes, and trees blocking the view, with the occasional peep though. Ok I’m being dramatic, it’s not like that the whole way. But enough that it’s noticeable.

A barely visible trial through the masses of green leafy bushes and and a tree hanging over the trail, on the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford.

There is a lot of overgrowth, and for the first time on my Thames Path journey, the stinging nettles got me…a number of times.

A trail through the overgrowth of bushes, with the river to the right and a hidden barge in the overgrowth.

A trail surrounded by bushes and trees, and a tree hanging over the trail ahead.

A trail leading through the overgrowth bushes towards a big tree and partially hidden gate.

Although, I think the reason I didn’t enjoy it so much is because it was a very hot day, and the heat got to me. I was hot and bothered.

Now, I didn’t not enjoy all of it. Some sections were actually quite lovely. You get a view to the impressive hill, lots of pretty flowers about, fancy houses on the other side, cute boats and barges moored to the side.

Looking over the tall grass to the river with small ripples and boats moored to the other side, on the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford. There are lots of trees on the other side of the river.

Looking over the grass and yellow flowers to the river, and red multiple archway bridge ahead, on the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford.

A neatly cut grass riverside bank, with a few barges moored to the sides, and a row of houses with church spire behind them on the other side, at the start of the walk out of Abingdon.

Looking over the tall grass to the river, and a cottage on the other side, when walking from Abingdon to Wallingford. The cottage is surrounded by green leafy trees.

A swan sitting on a nest on the edge of the river, on the walk between Abingdon and Wallingford. — A swans nest

But the full 14 miles I found quite tedious, and the end finished me off.

From Benson, for the last 2 miles, there is no path. It’s road. There is a trail on the other side of the river, so the National Trail people need to build a bridge to get to it. But for now, it’s road.

If I was to do the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford again, I would skip those last 2 miles altogether. From Benson you can get the X40 bus which takes you to Wallingford, Oxford, and Reading.

Logistics

Start: Abingdon-on-Thames, Oxfordshire.

Finish: Wallingford, Oxfordshire.
Distance: 14.5 miles.
Time: 4.5h

Difficulty: Easy in theory.
Terrain: Lots of grass, overgrown grass, dirt trail, big chunk of road/pavement at the end.
Dog friendly: Yes.

Time of year: I walked from Abingdon to Wallingford at the end of May.

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Public transport

Didcot Parkway station sits between Abingdon and Wallingford. The 33 bus runs between all of them. Didcot to Abingdon journey time is 30 min. Wallingford to Didcot journey time about 20-30min.

Another way is via Oxford (which has a train station). The X2 runs between Abingdon and Oxford (journey time 50min). The X40 runs from Wallingford to Oxford in 40min, and Reading in 50min, with direct trains to London.

Amenities

Abingdon: The Nags Head pub is a highly rated pub with a waterside garden and live music. There are a range of other eateries in town, and a Waitrose.

Along the route: There isn’t anything until you reach Shillingford towards the end, there is a pub there, but I can’t find it on maps. I definitely walked past one though. In Benson a little further along is The Waterfront Cafe, which is highly rated. Walking past, it was quite popular.

Wallingford: There are a few cafes, and highly rated restaurants and pubs to choose from. There is also a Waitrose. Some recommendations are, The Town Arms Pub, Soph’s Loaf sandwich shop, Mollie’s cafe, The Old Post Office restaurant, Five Little Pigs restaurant, The Coachmakers Arms Pub, Jim Beans coffee shop.

Accommodation

I went back home to London as it’s cheaper than spending the night, but if you want to stay, Abingdon and Wallingford both have bed and breakfast style accommodation.

In Abingdon, you could stay at the Kingfisher Barn B&B. It’s the cheapest option (last I checked), but does look quite lovely. It’s also pet friendly. For camping, there is the High Lodge Farm, a little past Abingdon.

In Wallingford, you have a few more options for accommodation under £100 (at the time of writing). I like the look of the Town Arms. It seemed the nicest of the cheaper options. It’s a bed and breakfast style pub, and is pet friendly. For camping, you have the Ridgeway View Campsite, which is a little past Wallingford

A row of old looking houses with the road in front in Abingdon.

Map for the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford

Read the previous section here: Day 5 Oxford to Abingdon

Route Description: Walk from Abingdon to Wallingford

If you have arrived in Abingdon by bus, find the town square, then if you stand with the old town hall behind and church in front, take the road on the right which will lead you to the river and over the bridge.

The Abingdon town hall standing tall with tall arches underneath. There are lots of people walking around it.

A church on the side of the road in Abingdon. The building to the right is covered in scaffolding. There are a few people walking about.

Looking across the road bridge with stone wall, to the Nags Head pub on the other side, at the start of the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford.

Take the stairs next to the pink house, then walk under the bridge.

Looking over the stone wall to two buildings. One is made of red brick, the other is painted pale pink.

Looking through a stone tunnel, with a trail sign with white acorn and yellow arrow pointing ahead through the tunnel, at the start of the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford. There is light at the end of the tunnel, with a view to grass and trees.

Follow the river

This first part of the walk is rather pretty. It was very sunny so I decided to put some sunscreen on (I really should have utilised the 2h+ journey to get here to do it, but we live and learn).

A path on the left and river on the right, with a strip of green grass between the two in Abingdon. There are boats in the river, buildings and church spire ahead on the other side of the river. There are a couple of people walking on the path ahead.

As soon as I put the sunscreen on the sun disappeared. Typical.

The fields

After the pretty section, the trail then leads you along the edge of a big field with tall grass. This is the vibe for the rest of the walk.

A wide path leading under the trees, with an area of grass to the left. There is light shining down through the trees.

A trail along the right edge of a large grass field, with tall grass and bushes to the right. There is a row of trees ahead in the distance.

When you reach a trail spilt (it’s quite a way further along), keep to the one on the right alongside the river, which will lead you through a tiny overgrowth gap. Also a vibe of this walk.

Through here there was a gate with a sign saying ‘bridge closed’. The gate (on both sides) looked as though they had been pulled open by someone who didn’t want to take a detour. As the gate wasn’t closed I didn’t need to pay attention to it. I thank that person.

The path leading through a gate and barrier which has been pulled open. This leads onto a bridge. The path and bridge are surrounded by green bushes.

More fields and Culham Cut

Next you will walk alongside a crop field, then a luminous grass field, and then alongside a river offshoot. I think this is called Culham Cut.

A wooden trail sign on the end of a grass trail and brown crop field.

Looking across the vast grass meadow, with trees lining the other side in the distance.

A trail leading through the grass at the edge of the grass field. The field is to the left and there are trees and bushes to the right.

A path lined with bushes and trees, with the river just about visible to the right.

The trail becomes more dirt like as it takes you through a long bushy section, where you can’t see much of the water.

A path leading ahead, lined with green bushes, and there is a white acorn on trail sign hidden by the bushes on the left, on the walk between Abingdon and Wallingford.

Once out of the open you will head towards Culham Lock. One thing that has struck me about the whole trail so far, is that the locks aren’t pretty any more. Up until before Oxford, each lock was a delight. Since Oxford they have been quite bland and boring.

The path on the left, and river on the right, separated by a strip of tall grass. There is a boat with four people on the river.

Looking across the green meadow to a cluster of houses on the other side on the Abingdon to Wallingford walk.

The path on the left and river on the right leading to a lock.

Back on the Thames

At the lock, cross the road bridge (don’t go over the bridge) to pick up the trail on the other side. You are now back on the Thames.

A narrow trail through the overgrown grass, curving to the right around the bushes ahead.

It’s now a long old stretch on trail surrounded by bushes and trees, with the occasional sighting of river on the right.

A narrow trail surrounded by masses of green bushes and overhanging trees.

Looking through a gap in the bushes and trees to the river.

A messy area of overgrown grass, with a telephone pylon in the distance.

In parts it looked like the path had been semi-freshly cut. I wondered how often it is tended to. How wild does it get?

A strip of cut grass marking the trail leading ahead, with tall grass to the left and bushes to the right. There river is to the right past the bushes.

Under the railway bridge, and some more fields and bush later, you will leave the Thames to follow another offshoot. The Clifton Cut. You don’t need to do anything special, just follow the only path.

A grass path surrounded by bushes, leading under a metal bridge ahead, when walking from Abingdon to Wallingford.

A grass path on the right and brown crop field to the left. There is a mass of green bushes lining the path on the right and trees along the end of the field ahead.

A grass path on the right, with field to the left, and bushes with white flowers lining the right side of the path. There are two people walking ahead.

Looking over the tall grass to the river and metal bridge structure ahead. — This is where there river splits

Some more bush, trees, and a bit of river later you will reach Clifton Lock.

A trail leading ahead towards a bush tunnel. The trail is lined with tall grass and more bushes.

A dirt trial leading under the trees and bushes partway through the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford. It's dark under the tree with light shining down ahead.

A narrow trail through the strip of grass leading ahead, with the river to the right and masses of bushes to the left, partway through the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford. There are some trees forming a tunnel ahead.

Looking over the river to a walkway and red bricked building with some ivy growing up it. There is a neatly cute lawn with flowers in front of the building.

I take back what I said earlier. This lock is pretty. It looks like you can buy ice cream here. Not sure where. In the big building maybe?

The first river crossing

A bit past the lock, there is a view to a bridge and church spire in the distance. The quaintness excited me.

A thin trail lined with tall bushes and grass to the left and a wire fence and green meadow to the left.

The trail through the grass on the left and river to the right with a red bricked archway bridge ahead, partway through the walk from Abingdon to Wallingford. There are white flower bushes to the left of the trail, and the bridge ahead is surround by green leafy trees.

When you reach the bridge, go over it, and if you take a look to the left when on the bridge, you should see a rooftop of a house hidden by the trees.

A road leading ahead over a bridge lines with trees and a rooftop visible on the other side.

Looking along the river with a mass of green leafy trees on the other side and a rooftop visible through the top of the trees on the walk between Abingdon and Wallingford. — See that house peeking out

A bit past the bridge, the trail is on the left.

Looking across the road to a mass of woodland trees and wooden gate entering them. There is a trail sign with green arrow pointing into the woods. — Take the left here

For some time now, something had been bothering me in my shoe. I tried emptying it a few times, but it didn’t make any difference. It was time to go deeper, so I took my sock off to look at my foot and saw a tiny splinter. Where did a splinter come from? Thankfully my nails needed a cut, so they were long enough to pick it out.

More fields, grand houses, and Thomas’s Meadows

Back on the trail, it might be a little muddy at first under the trees, then you will be guided around to reach the meadows.

Looking down to a muddy trail surround by tall grass, bushes and a few trees.

A dirt trial leading through the tall meadow grass. There are trees on the other side, and a rooftop and church spire poking out of the trees on the left.

A wide grass trail leading through the green meadow.

It’s now a long stretch of meadows. Meadows with yellow buttercups, grand houses on the other side of the river, signs telling you what animals are around, and meadows given to the Earths trust by Thomas and his family and friends. Who is Thomas?

A wooden pole with drawings of birds and other animals. The pole sites in the tall grass with yellow buttercups. There is a small body of water past the pole.

A wide grass trail leading through the green grass meadow filled with yellow buttercups when walking from Abingdon to Wallingford. There are trees and bushes on the left side of the trail.

Looking over the tall grass to the river and Tudor style house on the other side.

A metal gate and wooden fence leading into Thomas's Meadow.

Looking across the river to a green lawn and big houses on the other side. The houses are partially engulfed by trees.

I noticed a big hill to the right ahead. After about 20min I decided I needed to know what it was so got my map out. That area is Wittenham Clumps, and the hill is Round Hill. Apparently it’s South Oxfordshires most iconic landmark.

Looking across the tall grass green meadow to a big green hill in the distance.

The further in I got, the more I enjoyed this section. It was just the right place to sit looking over the river, and have a snack break.

Green grass to the left and river to there right, with masses of trees on the other side, on the walking route from Abingdon to Wallingford.

Looking across the river to a barge moored to the other side, partially engulfed by overhanging trees. There is a reflection of the barge in the water.

Looking over the grass to the river, and white speed boat moored to the other side.

On some of the gates was a danger sign, warning that the river is filled with raw sewage and Thames Water is to blame.

A yellow danger sign on a metal gate warning of raw sewage in the Thames.

I thought about the girl I saw earlier stand up paddle boarding and wondered if she might fall in.

Funny, that night I had a dream I had to swim in the Thames, but it was risky because of the sewage and I was putting myself in danger.

Days Lock to Shillingham

When you reach the bridge and lock, go over them. This is Days lock.

A bridge leading straight ahead, lined with metal trailings, leading to a building with scaffolding on the other side.

Over the lock, if you look into the field ahead, there is a sign for a farm with cake if you fancy. Otherwise, follow the trail to the right, where it becomes super narrow and a bit over grown.

A sign for the Bishops Court Farm sitting in the middle of a grass meadow.

A narrow trail lined with bushes with white flowers on the right, and a wire fence and meadow to the left. There is a big green hill ahead in the distance.

Keep going under a bridge, then later over a bridge. It was here that I saw a swan sitting on what looked like a nest. A swan nest. I googled it to check that it is a nest. It is. Never seen one of these before.

A thin trail lined with tall grass and white flowers, leading to a white metal bridge, with the river on the right. There are trees ahead on both sides of the river, and a partially hidden house on the right side. — Go under this bridge

A dirt trail on the left, partially engulfed by tall grass. the river is on the right, with masses of green leafy trees on the other side.

Looking along a wooden bridge with metal railings, and trees on the other side. — Then over this bridge

Keep following the river, maybe through overgrown grass (who knows, maybe it gets cut down occasionally. Like earlier. And they just haven’t got to this bit yet.)

A large grass meadow with tall grass and barely visible trail through the middle.

The next bit is important. You need to take a trail leading away from the river. There should be a wooden sign at the turn, and a view to a white walled house ahead.

A tall grass meadow with wooden trail sign on the right. — Turn left here

Turn left here and walk up to the road, passing by a war pillbox. Haven’t seen one of these since the early days of the walk.

A pillbox on the other side of a meadow with tall green grass. There is a hedge behind it.

At the road, turn right and follow it to reach Shillingham. There isn’t much here expect a pub. When you reach the pub, turn right walk past some quaint stone houses.

Looking across the road to the side road with a green buildings and red buildings with green Ivey growing across them. — Turn right here

A Thames Path trail sign on the side of the road posting right and back. There is a red post box next to the sign. There is a red brick building and green painted building with ivy growing across them on the other side of the road.

A road leading ahead and curving left, with a stone walled house leading to neatly cute green hedge on the left side.

The last good bit of the walk between Abingdon and Wallingford

Just before you reach the river, take a left onto a narrow alley trail next to the stone building.

A dirt road leading ahead through a small neatly cut green lawn infront of the river. There is a stone walled building on the left and a trail sign pointing along the left side of it. There is a bench on the lawn with two people sitting on it. — Turn left here

A narrow alley walkway between tow stone and brick walls. There is ivy covering part of the wall on the left.

At the end, turn right to walk along another tiny gap, and keep going straight past the gates and along another tiny gap.

A yellow arrow on a wooden fence, pointing right. There is also a red no cycling sign.

A narrow alley walkway with a wooden fence on the left and stone and brick wall on the right. There are tree branches hanging over the top.

Brick pillars and stone wall with an opening and ornate gate on the right.

When you reach the road again, turn left, and keep going to reach the bridge.

A wooden trail signpost with white acorn and yellow arrow pointing left. The sign sits on tall grass. — Turn left here

A wide path leading straight ahead, lined with masses of green leafy bushes and trees.

The bridge looked pretty cool, past the boathouse gate, but it’s private land so I couldn’t go any closer to look.

At the road, walk towards the bridge then pick up the trail on the left just before crossing.

Green leafy bushes and trees on the left and road leading over the bridge on the right, with a dirt trial between the tow. There is a trail sign next to the trail with green arrows pointing along it and back.

The trail down here I thought was lovely. Narrow dirt trail surrounded by lush bushes and trees, but still with a good view along the river.

A dirt trail lined with bushes and trees on both sides, with the river just visible to the right.

Looking over the tall grass to the river and colourful barges moored to the other side near the end of the walk from Abingdon and Wallingford. There are masses of large green leafed trees on the other side of the river.

A wide dirt path lined with bushes and trees with ivy covered trunks. There are people walking ahead on the path, with light shining down on them.

Something I found interesting was a wall in the river, and home on the other side. Does this wall mark the perimeter of this persons land? As in, does this person own that part of the river? Is that even possible, for someone to own part of it?

Looking across the river to a stone wall with bushes hanging over it, trees on the other side, and a white walled house partially hidden behind the trees, near the end of the walk from Abingdon and Wallingford.

Keep going and you will reach Benson with all the boats moored, what looked like holiday homes, and the Benson Waterfront Cafe.

A dirt path carving to the left around the green bushes, with tall grass lining the right side. the river is to the right, and there are some white boats moored to the side.

A gravel path on the right and end of a wooden fence eon the left, with white actors and yellow arrow pointing along the path. There are white boats on the right side of the path, and a man standing on one of the boats.

You should end the walk here. But if you want to go on….

Walk to Wallingford

Walk to the end of the boat docking area, and across the green. At the end of the green, turn left to get to the road, then turn right on the road.

A green with a few benches facing the river on the right. There are green tree branches hanging over the benches. — Walk to the end of this and turn left

A partially hidden green trail sign behind a metal gate, with a big bush on the left side. — Turn right here onto the road

Now, this first bit of road is alright. Quite nice actually. Quaint stone and thatched roofed houses.

A wide road lined with tall grass on the right and neatly cute hedge and thatched roofed house on the left.

A road lined with bushes on the right, hedge on the left, and a white walled thatched roofed house ahead.

After following the road around couple of bends, there is a trail through the bushes. It didnt look appealing. Very very overgrown. Then I saw a diversion sign so followed that, staying on the road.

A yellow sign saying diverted footpath Wallingford Thames Path with an arrow pointing left. There sign is nestled in the green leafy bushes.

At the big main road, it’s a right turn, then straight for a long long way.

A long straight road leading ahead, lined with bushes and trees. There is a car driving along the road.

At the very end, turn right and this road will lead you in to Wallingford. This road is nice. The first thing I noticed was the cute house facades. Maybe a taste of what I would find in Wallingford.

Except I didnt make it. As I approached a bus stop and saw that a bus was coming soon, I decided to take it. I had had enough. This road had finished me off. I was hot, and my water had run out. It was time to go home.

A row of quaint houses on the other side off the road at the end of the walk from Abingdon and Wallingford.