Today I would be walking the next section on my river walking journey, from Oxford to Abingdon. The day didn’t start out well though. I left much later than I had panned, and then my train was delayed which meant me missing my connecting train. Basically, I arrived in Oxford quite late in the day. In order to get home before dark, I would need to walk fast.
It also wasn’t until I was on the train that I realised I left my lunch at home. I was annoyed for a moment, before I remembered that Oxford station has an M&S. I try to avoid shopping there (Unsuccessfully though. I often make up reasons to shop there), but today I had a guilt free reason to do so.
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What to expect on the walk from Oxford to Abingdon
I had expected todays walk from Oxford to Abingdon to busier than the previous sections, and it was in parts. The first half of the walk I would say was quite civilised. First on path, then through some fields and on dirt trails. People about (although much less than I was expecting given how hot today was).
There were lots of people on the water, kayakers, rowers…..lots of rowers training, giving off an air of poshness.
The second half of the walk is a totally different walk. Wild and ‘remote’. It felt more reminiscent of the first few days along the along the Thames Path..but still not the same.
One thing that had been going through my mind was how the walk between Oxford and Abingdon just wasn’t the same. I missed those first few days. The remoteness. The big fields with the river flowing through. That feeling like you were so far away from everything. Even though the second half of the walk between Oxford and Abingdon was more like it, I was very aware that civilisation wasn’t far away.
Abingdon-on-Thames
Arriving in Abingdon was a nice surprise. I didn’t know anything about the place, and as I approached, the thought that went through my mind was ‘what a lovely town’. A shame I wasn’t spending the night here.
Since looking it up, I can see it claims to be the oldest town in England, with Morris dancers and is famous for bun throwing, a 250 year old tradition. The Abingdon county hall museum is rather impressive, with its huge arches. It used to be the town hall, built in the late 1600’s. If you want go inside, it’s free entry with suggested donations. They suggest £2 per adult, and £1 per child.
Logistics
- Start: Oxford, Oxfordshire.
- Finish: Abingdon-on-Thames, Oxfordshire.
- Distance: 9.9 miles
- Time: 3h at a fast pace. So allow longer.
- Terrain: Path, grass, dirt trail.
- Difficulty: Easy
- Dog friendly: Yes
- Time of year: I walked from Oxford to Abingdon in late May
Read the previous day: Newbridge to Oxford Day4
Public Transport
Oxford has a train station with direct trains from London Paddington, 50min journey.
From Abingdon you can get a bus back to Oxford. There are two buses. The 44 bus takes you nearer to the train station in Oxford, it’s a 40ish min journey and the buses run hourly. The 35 bus takes you about 10min walk away from the station and it’s a 45min journey, these buses are every 30min.
Alternatively you could get the 33 bus from Abingdon towards Henley. Get off at Didcot Parkway, (which is a 30min journey), which has a train station with direct trains to London Paddington. Doing this will cost more money though, as you would need to buy two singles, one to Oxford and one back from Didcot.
Accommodation
I didn’t spend the night as it was cheaper for me to go back home to London, but in Oxford you have tonnes of options as it’s a large town. For cheap you could stay at Central Backpackers, which is pet friendly. If you can’t bare the thought of a youth hostel, there are plenty of other options which you can find here.
In Abingdon, the cheapest I could find (rooms under £100) is the Kingfisher Barn Bed and Breakfast. It does look quite lovely, with garden views. Also Pet friendly.
Amenities
Oxford: Anything you could need in Oxford, and a handy M&S in the train station.
Abingdon: The Nags Head pub is the first place you will see when you arrive. It looked great, and smelled even better. I was gutted I couldn’t stay. In the town centre there are a number of other eateries, including a Mexican restaurant. There is a Waitrose and boots nearby if you are spending the night and need some supplies.
Along the route: For the first 4 miles there are a few places you can stop for food or drink. On the very first bit of path there is a small riverside pub called the Punter. It looked nice from the outside. At the Folly Bridge about 1 mile in there is a restaurant, and over the bridge is a coffee shop called the Paper Boat Cafe. I didn’t stop there, but it’s got great reviews. I would come here if I wanted some coffee. I like a good coffee shop. At the 4 mile mark is The Kings Arms pub. It looked nice, in a nice setting. Lots of people which is usually a sign of a good food establishment. After this when the path become more remote, there isn’t anything until you reach Abingdon.
Map for the walk from Oxford to Abingdon-on-Thames
Route description: Walk from Oxford to Abingdon-on-Thames
Out of the station at Oxford, I tried to rejoin the path where I had left off, by turning left. However, I was mortified to discover the route was closed off. Flooding apparently. But I was just here, and it’s not rained since.
I looked past the wall barrier and could see no flooding. I decided I would go past the barrier, but this was not possible so I reluctantly made my way back to the station. This mistake cost me 20min. I would have to power walk the rest of the way to make up time.
So….
Out of the station, don’t go down the steps. Turn right before them, and then along a walkway bridge thing. You’re going to do a sort of loop now. Turn left, then left again, so you are walking on the road under the bridge.
Keep going to reach the river, then cross over and turn left onto the little bridge to get down onto the path. Then turn right so you are walking away from the bridge (river to your left).
Follow the path
At first you will be walking through a residential type area. I looked at the cute house facades on the right and wondered how much it would cost to live there. Probably a lot.
Passing by the first lock, there were a couple of kayakers waiting for it to open. I’ve never seen this before, and it turned out to not be the last I saw today.
The path then becomes a bit more green and lush, passing by barges moored to the side.
What struck me was how out of Oxford, it was all a bit chaotic, but along here everything calmed down. Despite it being a wonderful day, there were way less people on the trail than I expected. Back home in London, the river path would be packed.
After the road crossing, the next section was a bit more lively. Rowers, kayakers…although most foot traffic seemed to be on the green on the other side.
The last bit of path
As you approach the next lock, stay straight, then cross over the bridge to pick up the path on the other side.
Then after a bit more path and greenery, you will reach the field (Iffy meadows).
I didn’t quite know what the walk from Oxford to Abingdon would entail, but I was starting to suspect it would be easy path walking the whole way. It is not. The path is over now, and the rest of the route (bar a few short bits) right up to Abingdon, is grass or dirt trail.
Walk across Iffy Meadows, more trail, and the pub
Walk across the field, following the river….Maybe admire the grand house on the other side.
On the other end of the field, you will be on a dirt trail. Then when you reach the bridge, cross over to pick up the trail on the other side.
When you reach Sanford Lock, there is a nice looking pub on the other side (the Kings Arms). It was lively, so must be good. This is the 4 mile mark on the walk between Oxford and Abingdon. If you are hungry and fancy a stop, then this would be a nice place. It is also the last place before reaching Abingdon. It was also noticeable a lot busier around here.
Past the lock, it’s a proper path again for a bit. Cross the bridge then turn left through the rugged car parking area…
and then everything changes….
The wild
Up until now, the walk had felt quite civilised. Even when the path ended and the trail turned to grass and dirt, it was still very neat. Walkers, sunbathers, and families about.
Now everything becomes a bit more wild and remote feeling. Much much less people. Barely anyone in fact. Just one person (and two kayakers) until I reached Abingdon.
It was quite a shock actually. It almost felt like I was doing two completely different walks. Overgrowth, tall unkempt grass, big fields.
There is the occasional neat bit, to remind you that this isn’t really that remote.
The confusing bit
As you are nearing the end, there is a section which is a little confusing. It’s well signposted so don’t worry about that. It’s more a hit at your bearings.
First off, there is a muddy section (it had been very hot weather for a while and it was still muddy and wet), then the trail sort of loops you away from the river for a short moment. Once back it feels like you are walking in the wrong direction. I was so confused and had to check my map. This is correct so trust the process!
After the little wooden bridge, at the junction with the trail sign, stay straight. This will lead you to the next junction and Abingdon lock.
The final stretch of the walk from Oxford to Abingdon
At the end of this trail follow the signs to the left, to walk over the bridge. It will probably be a lot busier now. A sign you are approaching civilisation.
Then go left again to walk over Abingdon lock, to join the path along the river on the other side.
This is now family friendly territory. A nice path along the river, grass, some ducks, geese, baby geese. Very busy.
When you reach the bridge, walk up the steps to it and cross over.
At the junction, turn left to walk with the impressive county hall on your left, and the bus stop will be just ahead.
Read next: Day 6 Abingdon to Wallingford