How to walk from Reading to Henley: Thames Path Day 9

From what I saw along the the river in Reading last time, and knowing how lovely Henley is, I was looking forward to todays walk. I was left a little disappointed though. This side of Reading didn’t feel as nice, Henley was a crowded sh*t show, and I zoned out for most of in between.

To be fair, I wasn’t in the best headspace. I found myself ruminating about a few issues in my personal life, and it was a gloomy day.

A large green grass field with cows grazing, partway through the walk from Reading to Henley. There is a mass of trees on the other side of the field, with a small stone walled house nestled within them.

What to expect on the walk from Reading to Henley-on-Thames

The first few miles of the walk from Reading to Henley is on easy path, with some scruffy boats, and a grass field thrown in.

A long wide walking path, lined with grass on both sides, and the river to the left. There are lots of trees on the other side of the river.

Looking across the river with ripples, to a scruffy house boat on the other side, at the start of the walk from Reading to Henley. There is a mass of green leafy trees behind the boat and hanging over it.

A green leading to the river. There is one person rowing on the river. There are lots of geese standing on the edge of the green looking over the river.

A grass field with a black bench facing the river ahead. There is an information board next to the bench on the left.

Then it becomes a bit more trail like, sometimes on the edge of the river, sometimes surrounded by tall grass, bushes, and trees hiding the river, sometimes expensive houses to look at on the other side, and some overgrowth thrown in.

A narrow trail lined with grass, bushes, and trees.

A barge on the river, with big trees and a grand white walled house on the other side, on the walk between Reading and Henley.

Tall overgrown meadow, with a view to a biog white walled house in the distance, surrounded by mass of green leafy trees, on the walk between Reading and Henley.

A boat half sunken on its side in the river. — Poor boat

There are a few detours away from there river. The first one is short, the second one is bigger, and the third one is annoying.

Let’s talk about that third one. It’s a diversion from a closed bridge. I’m not sure I got the diversion direction correct because I found myself at a flooded area, locked gates, and a path that according to the map would have me walk for miles in the opposite direction. I ended up squeezing through a hole in a fence, climbing over a locked gate, and then climbing over a big fence. I was not about to walk for miles in the opposite direction, especially as this bit was right near the end of the walk.

Three fences in the trees, blocking the route to the road on the other side. — This is the exact bit I climbed over. It was the only bit without barbed wire

Then there was Henley. I’ve enjoyed my previous visits to Henley, peaceful and pretty. Everyone was in Henley today. Including all the children. That’s when I realised my previous visits have been in winter or weekdays. Today was a sunny summer weekend.

Logistics

Start: Reading, Berkshire.
Finish: Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire.

Distance: 10.5 miles.
Time: 3h 15min.
Option to shorten the walk: Yes. At 8 miles you walk right over Shiplake Station if you would like to stop there. It’s one stop along from Henley. See tips below for more details.

Difficulty: Easy.
Terrain: Path, grass, dirt trail, road.
Dog friendly: Yes

Time of year: I walked from Reading to Henley in early June

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Public Transport

Reading and Henley both have trains to London Paddington. There is a fast Paddington-Reading train taking 23 min (the non fast train takes 50min). The Henley-Paddington train is indirect and takes about 50min with a change at Twyford.

There is also a bus linking Henley and Reading. It’s the 800 bus with a journey time of about 40min.

Tips for the walk

Personally, I would stop at Shiplake Station. If you follow the Thames Path after, it leads you to the closed off path. There is no way to divert past here without climbing over fences and walking in private land. Studying the map, I can see that the only way is actually to walk to the big main road from Shiplake for the rest of the walk to Henley.

This closed off section feels pretty permanent. Temporary diversions are usually announced with temporary signage. This signage did not look temporary if they went to the trouble of making it.

A wooden trail sign post with an arrow pointing left saying Thames Path. The post is on the right side of a meadow with tall grass, and bushes and trees running along the right side and ahead. — See the arrow pointing right says ‘closed footbridge’

Amenities

Reading will have anything you might need as it’s a big town. The station has toilets, M&S, coffee shops, boots, and other food options.

Along the route, out of Reading at about 3.5 miles there is the Sonning Boats and Launches cafe. In the same area, before crossing the bridge, is the Coppa Club which is a restaurant with pods. After this, there is nothing until you reach Shiplake at 8 miles, where you have the Baskerville Arms pub.

You will find lots in Henley, it’s a popular (and posh) town. Bistro at The Boathouse is a Michelin Plate restaurant (this is one below Michelin Star). For something less fancy, you have a wide range of pubs, restaurants, and coffee shops to choose from. There is also a chocolate cafe. For a good burger you have Buddy’s Breakfast and Burgers. For a cosy pub with riverside terrace you could try the Angle on the Bridge. Another highly rated pub is the Bull on Bell St. I’m an artisan coffee shop gal, and a few good ones are Berries Coffee, Hot Gossip Coffeehouse, and Spoon Cafe.

Accommodation

If you are spending the night, a cheap option in Reading is the Travelodge. There is a lot to choose from, so if you would like something else you can have a browse here.

You’re not going to find cheap in Henley. Nothing under £100 at least. The cheapest I could find is Rioshouse. It does look nice in photos. No breakfast at this one, and not pet friendly if you need that. Alternatively, you can see what else is on offer here. For camping, you have the Swiss Farm Campsite, or the Embers Campsite a little further along.

Map for the walk from Reading to Henley

Note: This is my exact route, and I don’t recommend the last bit of it as mentioned earlier.

Read the previous section here: Day 8 Goring and Streatley to Reading

Route Description: Walk from Reading to Henley-on-Thames

From Reading station, you want to exit at the back. To get there, make your way onto the upper level. If you have come from London, follow the signs for platforms 8-15. This will lead you up the escalators to the next level. Then make your way to the other end and take the escalator down to exit the station from this side.

Inside Reading station, looking towards the escalator and big glass window to the outside. — This is where you exit the station

Walk to the main road, passing by the bikes on the right. Across the main road to the right is Norman Place. Walk through there, then through a gap in the buildings on the right. There is a blue direction arrow pointing that way. This will get you onto the river, where you turn right.

A residential road though the apartment building complex. — Walk through here to get to the river

Start the walk from Reading to Henley

Now just follow the river. It’s on this easy path for some time. It’s open for a bit, then past the lock you will venture under the trees for a moment before walking around a sports field, then back under the trees.

The path on the right, with black metal railings on the left and the river on the other side. There is a white bridge in the distance over the river, leading into a big bushy tree on the other side.

The path on the right curving behind the bushes, with the river on the left with ripples. There is a mass of trees lining the left side of the river.

A path leading through a large sports field. There is a mad wearing black jumper walking in the field. There are trees lining the path ahead.

A bench in the tall grass facing through a gap in the trees to apartment buildings.

A path leading straight, lined with bushes and trees.

You will pass lots of scruffy house boats and barges, with varying degrees of junk outside.

A path leading straight ahead with overhanging tree branches from the right, on the walk out of Reading towards Henley. The river is on the left, with a few barges moored to the side.

The path then opens up, before leading you across a large field, and then under trees again.

A walking path on the right, leading ahead and curving left. The river is to the left. There is a strip of grass between the two.

Five people in a row walking across a large grass field. There is a trail signpost on the left.

A widę path leading into the bushes and trees, with a wooden trail signpost on the left side.

This bit was lush with the masses of green leafy trees and bushes. But it sort of added to the heaviness I was feeling. Especially with the thick low clouds. I had the urge to cry.

A wide dirt trial lined with bushes and trees, and a wooden railing on the right, on the walk from Reading to Henley.

Looking over the bushes to the river, which is lined with masses of big leafy trees, on the walk from Reading to Henley. There is a barge on the river ahead in the distance.

A dirt trail on the right, with the river to the left, and bushes separating the two when walking from Reading to Henley. The right side of the path is lined with big leafy bushes and trees.

Past the lock and a bit more easy path, you will reach a bridge.

A path on the right and river on the left, with a blue barge heading towards the lock. There are two women walking on the path.

The path curving to the left ahead, with the river on the left and an archway bridge partially hidden by trees ahead, on the walk from Reading to Henley. The path is lined with bushes and trees.

I saw some hogweed again. I got my phone out to identify if it is Giant Hogweed. My phone said no, but looking at the photo now, I’m not so sure. The leaves have that jagged look which is a characteristic of the giant one.

A mass of green leafs of the bushes and trees.

Where I zoned out

Cross over the bridge, then pick up the trail on the right just across the other side. This will take you over a bridge, then along a path lined with lots of boats.

A wooden trail signpost partially hidden by the green leaves of the bushes. The arrow points left for the Thames Path.

A bridge partially hidden by big bushes. — This is the path over the bridge

Looking across the river to a big house in the distance surrounded by big trees with green leaves, on the walk from Reading to Henley.

A dirt trail leading ahead, with bushes on the right and trees and bushes on the left, with some tree branches hanging over the trail. The river is just visible on the right.

A thin trail through the grass, with the river on the right and boats moored to the side.

Two orange deck chairs and umbrella on a small green grass hill, and a black information board in front of them. — This is the cafe

After the boats, it’s a long stretch surrounded by tall grass, or bushes and trees, with peaks through to the river.

A long straight dirt path lined with green grass, bushes, and trees, and a tree tunnel forming ahead.

Looking over the green lady bushes to the river, and meadow on the other side.

A thin trail through the tall grass, leading to trees ahead.

The grass and dirt trail on the left, with bushes and tall grass on the right then the river to the right of that. There is a boat moored to the side, mostly hidden by the tall grass.

Somewhere along here is the halfway point in the walk between Reading and Henley. At some point you will reach a neatly cut lawn. This I think belongs to Skiplake College. I sat down here for my snack.

A trail leading ahead on the right, with green bushes with white flowers to the left. The path leads to a bridge ahead. A house is partially visible through the bushes and trees on the left.

Looking down to a neatly cut green lawn on the left, with with river on there right. There are big trees and bushes on the other side of the lawn.

Walk to Shiplake Lock

The trail continues just past the big red college sign, much more rugged now, and lined with hedge and trees.

A dirt trail leading ahead lined with bushes and trees.

When out of the trees you are surrounded by tall bush, which I actually quite liked. The white flowers made it pretty.

A thin dirt trail lined with tall bushes with white flowers when walking between Reading and Henley.

Looking over the tab, grass to the river and small house on the other side, on the walk from Reading to Henley. The house is surrounded by lots of trees of varying sizes.

A dirt trail leading around a big tree, and lined with grass and bushes. — The big tree

When you reach Shiplake Lock, you take your first detour away from the river.

Looking over the bushes with white flowers to the lock building on the other side.

River detour 1

Turn left at the lock, then at the road turn right. Walk all the way to the end of this road, passing by big expensive looking houses.

A path leading ahead, with a stone wall on the right and wooden fence on the left. There is a wooden trail signpost next to the fence and a grass field on the other side.

A wooden trail signpost on the right next to a tall stone wall. The road is just visible on the left. — The right turn on the road

A country road leading straight ahead, lined with a hedge and trees on the left and wall with bushes hanging over it on the right.

When you reach the green bridge, walk under it and take a right. This will lead you back the river river where you turn left.

A wide dirt road leading ahead under a metal bridge which is partially hidden by tree branches.

a metal gate with a white acorn and yellow arrow on the left wooden pole. The arrow points ahead to the dirt path. The dirt path is lined with bushes and trees. — The right turn under the bridge

Overgrowth, boats, and more big houses

There is a bit more overgrowth along this stretch, mixed in with neater bits. As you get further along you have some nice big rich people houses with immaculate lawns to look at on the other side.

A partially hidden trail through the tall grass meadow, with trees to the right.

A narrow trail surrounded by tall grass, bushes and trees.

A narrow trail lined with tall grass, with a big tree on the right, on the walk from Reading to Henley.

Looking over the tall grass to the river with ripples and Tudor style building on the other side. The building is surrounded by big trees with masses of green leaves.

A grass path through the tall grass, with the river to the right.

As you approach this house (photo below), you take your next detour.

A grass path leading through the tall unkempt grass, towards a partially hidden house, on the walk between Reading and Henley.

River detour 2

Go through the gate, and follow the edge of the field, to find a bridge on the right.

A metal gate on the left with a field on the other side. The gate and fence is partially hidden by bushes. There is the rooftop of a hose visible ahead behind the bushes and trees.

The dirt path leading to a metal gate and bridge, surrounded by tall grass.

Over the bridge, keep to the right, then when you see the metal bridge ahead, walk towards it.

A large grass field with a mass of trees on the other side. — Walk towards this

Go through the gate, then walk under the impossibly low bridge. You will need to crouch.

A wooden stump signpost on the left, with a yellow arrow pointingt ahead to the right under a low metal bridge.

Follow the trail which will lead you to the village. Turn right when you get there.

A wooden trail sign pointing right for the Thames Path, on the route between Reading and Henley. There is a rooftop behind a hedge behind the sign.

A road leading ahead, lined with hedges on both sides. There is a pavement on the left with a car parked half on it. There is a row of houses along the right side of the road.

When you reach the end of this road, turn right, passing the Baskerville Arms Pub. Then keep going and you will reach Shiplake station.

A brick walled pub, with wooden picnic benches outside.

Looking towards Shiplake station and railway road crossing.

At the time of writing there is no way to reach Henley if you continue following the trail past Shiplake. So you can either catch the train from here, or walk along the main road.

To get to the main road, instead of turning right at the pub, continue straight and left along Northfield Avenue. When you reach the big main road, turn right. Follow this for about 1 mile to reach Mill Lane on the right. Which will take you back to the river now in Henley.

What happened next

I crossed over the train tracks, then took a left along an alleyway type path. It became very close along here. I almost had to walk sideways.

A narrow dirt trail with a wooden fence and garden to the left and wooden fence then hedge to the right. There is a white acorn and arrange arrow pointing along the trail, on the wooden fence on the left.

A very narrow walkway through the tall hedges. There is light shining at the end.

Out of the tight tunnel, and through an odd gap in the hedge, it was a lot of road walking to reach the trail again.

A wide road leading straight ahead, lined with a wooden fence on the right and strip of grass and neatly cut hedge on the left. There is a big tree hanging over the fence on the right.

Orange and yellow trail arrows on a wooden post on the left, pointing ahead on the dirt path towards a mass of trees.

Eventually I was led back onto the river, although I couldn’t see it much with the tall grass blocking my view. The was the occasional gap to show off the big houses though.

A grass trail lined with big bushes and tall grass.

Looking over the unkept grass to the river and grand white walled houses on the other side, near the end of the walk from Reading to Henley. There is a big wall of green leafy trees behind the houses.

Looking over the tall messy grass to the river and house on the other side, near the end of the walk from Reading to Henley. There is a white cliff and masses of trees behind the house.

When I reached the blocked off path, my heart sank. I stepped back and saw what looked like a makeshift trail. Where others had stomped across trying to find another way. So I followed that.

A big metal gate blocking the path, surrounded by bushes.

It lead me to a flooded section. So I followed the barely there trail to a mass of bog and puddle and dead end fence. This one had a hole in it, so I precariously walked along the log in the puddle and squeezed through the fence, then climbed over the next fence to get me back to the other side of that flooded bit.

Looking through the bushes to the mass of water then walkway on the other side.

A mass of tall messy grass and wooden fence with a hole, and field on the other side. — I went through that gap

A wet boggy ground with log to walk over. — and over this

Of course, the next gate was locked. A sign I have gone the wrong way. So I climbed over and was able to reach the road. I breathed a sigh of relief. I had made it….or so I thought.

A wooden gate surrounded by bushes and trees with light shining down on the other side.

Following this road, it started to curve the wrong way. I wanted to get onto the road on the right on the other side of the trees, fence, and barbed wire. But there was no way to get to it. It was fully blocked. If I stayed on this road it would take me all the way back to Shiplake. I wasn’t having that, so found a section of fence without barbed wire that I could climb over, baffled as to why there isn’t a path connecting the two.

Enter Henley

From here I was able to make it to the meadows and immaculate riverside path leading into Henley. At first I was relieved. Until I realised all the people were here too. It was such a sharp contrast having spent the day in peace, to be thrown into noise of children, people, and bandstand.

Looking across the river with ripples to houses on the other side and a hill of trees rising up behind,.

A path on the left, with the river on the right. There are speed boats moored to the side, rowers in the water, and people walking along the path.

A mass of people walking along the wide path, with the river on the right and lots of boats moored to the side. There are the houses and buildings of Henley ahead.

I wanted to get out of here ASAP, so didn’t go into the centre of town, and headed straight to the station to go home.

Read next: Henley to Marlow. Note, I walked this section some years ago which is when I wrote this guide, I’m not re writing it so it might sound out of place. Enjoy 🙂