How to walk from Cricklade to Lechlade: Thames Path day 2

I woke up today feeling rough. I felt so unwell last night I couldn’t even finish my dinner. I had picked up some food from Tesco, and got into bed to eat. At some point I put it to the side to have a moment of rest and fell asleep. I wanted to go home, but alas, I had paid for this trip so I was damn well going to finish it. The silver lining was that todays walk from Cricklade to Lechlade was only 11 miles.

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What to expect on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade

The walk from Cricklade to Lechlade I would say is characterised by lots of bog, marsh, and general wetness. The whole thing just felt very wild and remote. Today my boots would get soaked through (they are waterproof but have massive holes in them) and stay that way for the rest of the trip.

The green marshy looking river on the left and unkempt grass on the right with a trail running through it on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

The river curving on the left, with tall grass and hay on the right.

Looking across the river to a green grass bank, a strip of water, and a row of trees on the other side when walking from Cricklade to Lechlade.

The river on the left and bushes and grass to the right.

I would also get surrounded by cows who then proceeded to lick me and try to get into my backpack.

The walk is a bit twisty and turney, and at times without the river in sight. It’s pretty well signposted though….with one or two illegible signs.

Logistics for the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade

Start: Cricklade, North Wiltshire. SN6 6AY
Finish: Lechlade-on-Thames, Gloucestershire, GL7 3AQ.
Distance: 11miles
Time: 4h
Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: Bog, mud, more bog, grass, road.
Dog friendly: Yes. No stiles, some loose cows, a bit of road.
Time of year: I walked from Cricklade to Lechlade in early May
Amenities: Tesco and a few places to eat in Cricklade (plus a boots which shuts at 2pm on Saturday). Lechlade has a Budgens, and a few options for food (pubs/restaurants/cafe/tea room).

You can read day 1 here: Source to Cricklade

Or Day 3 here: Lechlade to Newbridge

A large field with a tracker in the middle, on the walk between Cricklade and Lechlade.

Public transport

Both Lechlade and Cricklade have buses to/from Swindon which has a train station. So it’s possible to do todays walk as a day trip.

Swindon-Cricklade is the 51 bus, with a journey time of about 25min, or the 53 bus with a journey time of about 40min.

Swindon-Lechlade is the 64 bus, with a journey time of about 40 min. This bus isn’t that frequent. At the time of writing there is only 1 in late afternoon for the finish (or one in the early morning if you are starting the walk from Lechlade).

Accommodation

In Cricklade I stayed in the cheapest I could find, which was the Vale Hotel. It cost me about £75. I liked it more than I thought I would and would stay again. It’s pet friendly. If you want to camp, there is the Elm Lea Campsite which is a few miles back off the trail.

In Lechlade I stayed at the Riverside. It’s a pub restaurant with accommodation in separate barns. No complaints other than my private bathroom wasn’t actually in my room. Judging by how the place looks from the outside I was expecting a bit more from the inside. But it did the job. It cost about the same as the Vale.

Looking over the grass and yellow flowers to the river, and the Riverside pub on the other side at the end of the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade. There is a barge moored to the episode of the river.

For camping you have the Bridge House Campsite, with toilet and shower facilities. It’s located on this side of the bridge.

Map for the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade

Route Description: Walk from Cricklade to Lechlade-on-Thames

Starting from the main road in Cricklade, you want to take the side road opposite the big clock, and keep going to reach Thames Lane. Walk along Thames Lane, then some way further along you should reach a Thames Path sign pointing between some houses on the right.

A road and roundabout on the left and pavement with tall clock on the right in Cricklade. The road is lined with buildings on both side. — Take the road opposite this clock

A white walled house on the4 road corner, with a sign saying 'thames Lane' There are small trees in front of the house.

A wooden trail sign sticking out of a yellow bush on the green on the left. The sign is pointing right, across the road. There are houses ahead.

Looking across the road as it then leads un between two houses. — Walk between those houses

Then when you reach the green corner, follow the path which takes you through a wooden gate, then to the left, and you will reach the river (on your left).

A curving trail on the right, and green grass and bushes on the left with a wooden bench and information board.

An information board sitting on the grass in front of the river, near the start of the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

Now follow it.

Follow the river

You will now be walking through a big green with neatly cut grass and occasional picnic bench. This is as civilised as todays walk gets.

Follow the river as it curves to the left, and then walk under the bridge. It can be very muddy here. Particularly around the gate. The gate was full of puddle for me. I had to climb on the edge of the gate, open it, then swing myself around to avoid wet feet…with what was to come, I needn’t have bothered.

A stone plaque on the grass bank, with the river on the left and a bridge over the river ahead.

The wild

The landscape and trail start to become more wild now.

A muddy trail leading ahead through the grass to a wooden fence and gate.

A dirt mud trail on the right, and river on the left, with a bridge ahead.

A trail through the tall grass, with the river on the left. There are big overhanging trees on the other side of the river.

When you reach the second bridge, cross over it and turn right. A little further along, the grass is long and the river looked like a strip of deep bog. I wondered what it looks like after lots of rain. I imagined it encroaching on the trail.

A bridge on the left with a wooden trail sign pointing over it. There is messy grass on this side of the bridge.

A grass field with stream of water to the right. — I assume this is the river. It could just be a strip of bog.

Through the gate, keep along the edge of the field along a rough outline of trail through the grass. The river might not be visible, but it will soon appear again.

A metal gate in a wooden fence, with a field on the other side. There are bushes and trees to the right.

A grass field with a big bush on the left, and a wooden gate ahead.

Looking over the messy grass grass to a wire fence and the water on the other side. There are two white swans on the other side of the water sitting on the grass.

I got a real sense of remoteness along here, and a feeling like no ones ever comes this way…and no one would hear me scream. I checked my phone for signal just incase (I had signal).

The trail will continue through some more gates, to reach a bridge. Cross over it and turn left.

A narrow dirt trail lined with tall green bushes.

Looking over the green bushes to a wooden bridge partially hidden.

A wooden trail sign sitting in a large empty field. The sign points left, ahead and back. — Turn left here

Follow the river some more

Follow the river, now on your left, to reach two gates. Go through and you can just follow the river for some time now.

The river on the left, and grass field on the right. There are trees on the other side of the river.

Through lots of fields, over some little wooden bridges, under trees, and along mud. Somewhere along here I noticed what looked like hoof prints. Maybe deer?

A dirt path on the right through the grass, and a big leaning tree on the left when walking between Cricklade and Lechlade.

The river partially visible on the left, with grass and bushes with white flowers on the right on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

Tall grass with a metal gate ahead, surrounded by trees and bushes with white flowers.

A wooden bridge with stone steps leading up to it, surround by masses of green bush and trees.

Looking along a wooden bridge to the grass ahead, and orange crop field on the right, and river on the left.

A muddy trail leading through a mass of green leafy bushes and trees.

Looking over the tall green grass to two white swans on the river. There are big bushes and trees on the other side of the river.

The flooded field

Somewhere deep into the route, there is a field that may or may not be flooded. Unfortunately for me, it was flooded.

I checked my map for an alternate route, but there was none. I was too deep in for that. Someway or another I was getting across. Even if it meant walking through the water. But before I resorted to that, I skirted along the edge of it to find a more sensible place to cross. I found it, but it was still bog central. Only half my feet were submerged though.

Castle Eaton

After some more riverside walking, you will start to see some civilisation by way of holiday park buildings on the other side.

The river on the left leading ahead, with strip of grass on the right side, and partially hidden buildings of the holiday park on the other side.

When you reach the end with a green bridge ahead and some houses, it’s a dead end. Maybe there was a sign further back directing me the other way? Anyway, if you end up here, just walk to the other side of the field and find the gate that leads you up to the road, and the village of Castle Eaton.

A grass field on the right, and river on the left and a wire fence separating the two. There are trees ahead, and rooftops of houses visible. — This is the dead end

A muddy field with bushes and trees ahead, and a wooden fence infant of them. — That’s the gate you want to walk through

Looking along a road lined with stone buildings.

Follow the main road straight through. It’s a cute little village with a pub and not much else.

The side of a stone walled house with the old post office sign on it, on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

The large red brick walled building of the red lion pub. There are a few cars parked outside.

Follow the road as it curves to the right, then at the T-junction, turn left.

A road sign saying 'Long Row' on the grass bank, with a stone all and leafy bushes behind it, and a wooden trail sign on the right.

Looking across the road to a stone house and stone wall in front of it. — Turn left here

Lots of road

After some more road walking, you should reach a wooden Thames Path sign directing you along a little road on the left.

The road on the left leading ahead, and grass bank with bushes on the right. There is a wooden trial sign on the bank, pointing left. — Turn left here

A road leading straight ahead, lined with green strips of grass on both sides, and bushes on the left. There is an orange crop field on the left side of the bushes.

It’s a fair bit more road walking, which I found quite lovely actually. It was nice being on dry ground for a bit.

A long straight road lined with green bushes and trees on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

A long straight road lined with grass banks on both side, with a few white flowers. There is a big straggly leafless tree ahead on the left.

There are more signs coming up directing you back onto green and soon back along the river. River on your left.

A wooden trail sign pointing left and right, sitting in front of grass leafy trees.

Neatly cut green grass, with bushes on the right, and a partially hidden house on the left.

A green grass field with a trail running straight ahead, and orange crop field to the right and big leafy bushes to the left. — Turn right at the end of this field

Overgrown grass with a trail leading through it towards a wooden bridge and trees. The river is on the left.

A trail through the grass leading towards a cottage ahead on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade. There are green leafy bushes on the left side.

The river is short lived though, as the trail leaves it again when you reach the next road, where you turn right.

A wooden trail signpost saying 'Thames Path public footpath' sitting in front of a stone walled house on the walk between Cricklade and Lechlade. The sign points right and back.

A road leading ahead, lined with green leafy bushes and trees, and partially hidden house ahead on the left.

At the next road junction, the sign is almost illegible, but it’s telling you to turn left.

A wooden signpost nestled in a green bush.

A road leading to the left, lined with bushes, grass and trees. There is a gap in the trees ahead on the right side of the road, with a view to a yellow and brown crop field. — This is the left

Then after more road, when you reach the junction, take the right.

A long straight road lined with green leafy bushes and trees, with white flowers, when walking towards Lechlade from Cricklade.

A trial leading to the left, off the road. The trail is lined with strips of green grass, there is a hedge wall on the left side of it. — Turn right here

No more road

Follow the road some more, and at some point you will reach a crop field, where you take a left into it, and then follow the green strip of grass straight through the middle.

A track leading straight, lined with green leafy bushes. There is a strip of grass through the track.

A track curving ahead, with a brown crop field on the right and strip of grass and trees and bushes on the left.

A wooden stump sign with white acorn on the left on the grass, with the trail on the right, curving left. There is a grass field on the right side of the trail.

A wooden stump sign on the grass on the left with an over hanging tree, and an orange crop field on the right, when walking towards Lechlade from Cricklade. — Turn left into this field

A ling strip of green grass in between two orange crop fields on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade. There is a big tree with grass leaves on the grass. — Then turn right along this strip

At the end, you will reach some signage. It says (or at least says when I was there) National Trail route change. I’m not sure what this meant, so just followed the signs, first along a wooden walkway, then lots of mud through the trees and bushes

A wooden trail signpost with a sign on it saying 'National trail route changed ahead'. The sign sits in front of a big green leafy bush.

A wide muddy track leading between green leafy trees and bushes.

At the next corner, turn left, and through another gate along a trail with a big boggy field on the left. Looking at that field, I was glad I wasn’t in it.

A wooden trial sign ahead sitting in front of a big green leafy bush. — Take the left here

A dirt path with a metal gate on the left, and bushes ahead. There is a wooden stump trail sign in the bushes.

A muddy trail leading ahead with a wire fence and bug boggy wet field on the left.

Looking across a big wet and boggy crop field. — Gross

The river is back

At the end of this bit of trail, at the gate, there is a sign warning you of the airfield coming up. I got excited I might see some planes…

A wooden trail sign saying 'Thames Path' pointing right and back, sitting in front of a big green leafy bush.

Entering that field, you will finally see the river again. Keep along the trail next to it (river should be on your left).

A strip of tall grass with a trail running through it leading ahead, with the river to the left on the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade. There is a white swan in the river.

Looking across the field, the grass was very tall. Not something for planes. Maybe there was a strip somewhere in it? But yeah, no planes were about.

I quite enjoyed being along the river again, but I was more excited that I was nearing Lechlade. My body had had enough today.

The trail will lead you over a wooden bridge, then through some woods, then back into the open again.

Looking along a wooden bridge to a metal gate and mass of green leafy bushes and trees on the other side.

A trail lined with wooden railings, leading into a mass of green leafy woodland, near the end of the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

A wooden stump trail sign on the left with an orange arrow pointing along the dirt trail ahead. the trail is lined with overgrown grass.

A trail leading ahead through the tall grass, with a wire fence on the right and river on the left.

The fields

Do as the sign says and follow the river bank to the bridge, and then continue the same after.

A wooden pole on a gate, with a white acorn sign on it, and big grass field on the other side.

The river on the left and grass field on the right. There is a trail running through the field alongside the river. There is a big tree in the river ahead.

There were a lot of cows in the field. Munching away at the grass. I kept a close eye on them though. I thought about my escape plan. It would have to be the river. Do cows swim? I would cross that bridge if it ever came to that.

Black and white cows grazing in a large grass field.

The trail will lead you through a gate, then up a strip of grass to reach the road with church opposite.

A mass of mud surrounding a path of grass with a metal gate and wire fence.

A trail leading through the tall grass, with green white and red coloured bushes on the left.

A wooden trail sign on the left and church ahead, on the walk towards Lechlade from Cricklade. The sign points right and back.

Turn right, then after a short bit of road walking, you should reach a sign directing you left back into a field.

A road curving ahead on the right, with a green grass field on the left. The field is lined with a metal fence and green hedges. — Turn left into the field here

Looking across a large grass field with trees in the distance in the mist, near the end of the walk from Cricklade to Lechlade.

Now walk straight across to reach a bridge, then go straight some more to reach another bridge over the river. Don’t go over the second bridge. Instead turn right and walk with the river to your left.

A metal gate leading to a wooden bridge in the middle of a grass field.

A trail leading through the large grass field towards trees and a wooden bridge in the distance.

The cows

You will start to see boats and longboats moored to the side as you approach Lechlade. But for me, the walk wasn’t quite over yet.

A grass field with the river and moored boats on the left.

I could see some cows ahead, on the path. There was also a couple off other walkers. They were stood still, so I continued past them towards the cows thinking they would be up behind me. Power in numbers.

As I reached the cows I slowed down, so as not to make any sudden moves. They then proceeded to surround me. I looked back for the other walkers, but the were gone. They left. Now I had to fend for myself.

A mass of black and white cows in the field, with a barbed wire fence on the left.

I stood still wondering how to get out of this, and thought back to a farmer telling me that cows are actually very friendly and if they come to you, it’s just because they think you have food. I kept telling myself that…

Then one cow started licking me. LICKING ME. He then decided to try and get into my backpack. I needed to move on. But the rest of the cows were fully blocking the path.

I continued on, sticking right on the edge of the river, convinced they would push me into it.

Except they didn’t. They parted, leaving me walking space. Maybe cows aren’t so bad after all.

Walk to Lechlade-on-Thames

Lechlade is just ahead, so keep going to reach the bridge. I stayed in the Riverside, which is the big building you will see just across the river.

A stone arched bridge over the rover, with colourful canoes on the left in Lechlade.

I still felt like death so wasn’t ready to sit in public at a table to eat my dinner, so after I washed and dried myself off (then put on my wet hiking boots because I didn’t have anything else) popped over to Budgens to get some food to eat in bed.

Read next: Day 3 Lechlade to Newbridge