How to walk from the Source to Cricklade: Thames Path day 1

Welcome to day one. This walk takes you from the Source of the Thames in the Cotswolds, to the town of Cricklade in North Wiltshire.

Now, apparently there is more than one source for the Thames. A few springs dotted about. This is the one we start from though.

A narrow dirt trail with the river to the left, surrounded by green leafy trees and bushes on the walk from the source of the Thames to Cricklade.

A wooden fence with a V gap and old stone village buildings ahead, partway through the walk from the source to Cricklade.

A wooden trail sign post pointing right for the Thames Path from the source to sea 232 miles. — The very start

This post uses affiliate links. You can read the privacy policy or disclaimer for more info.

What to expect on the walk from the Source to Cricklade

First thing to be aware of, is the river may or may not be dried up when you reach the source. It’s still pretty cool though. Wherever you do see the river for the first time, it will be a little stream. So clear and clean looking.

A gentle clear stream of water meandering through the grass field . There are two bushy leafed trees on the other side. — The river in its infancy

A pile of rocks marking the spring of the source of the Thames, at the start of the walk to Cricklade. — The source

Of all the stages along the Thames Path, this one requires the most navigation as for chunks of it you wont see the river, or will have detours through villages. It’s mostly well signposted, but not always. Don’t worry, I describe the route step by step further down below.

A wooden trail signpost with red ivy growing up it.

Parts of this route are prone to flooding, and I did have to detour around one flooded field. Just something to be aware of.

One thing I particularly liked about walking this section from the source to Cricklade, was the houses along the edge of the small gentle river. It all felt rather lovely. There is lots of remoteness as well. Fields and dirt trail. Proper countryside.

The river with small wooden bridge crossings leading to some small houses on the right on the walk from the source to Cricklade. There is a weeping willow tree hanging down in the frame.

A wooden bridge covered in green leaf branches, leading over the river and surrounded by green leafy woodland trees, on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

A large green grass field with a wind tower in the middle and a red bricked house on the other side.

A large grass field with tufts of grass on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

Logistics for the walk from Kemble to the source to Cricklade

Start: Kemble Station, Cotswolds, Gloucestershire. GL7 6AW.
Finish: Cricklade, North Wiltshire. SN6 6AY.

Distance: 15 miles (the Thames Path is about 12 miles of this).
Time: 5h
Difficulty: Easy

Terrain: Grass, dirt trail, mud, road.
Dog Friendly: From the Source to Cricklade yes. From Kemble to the Source there are 2 stiles.
Time of year: I walked from the source to Cricklade in early May.

Amenities: Cafe and car park at Kemble station. Cricklade has a few places to eat, a mini Tesco, and a Boots which closes at 2pm on Saturday. En route, Ashton Keynes (about 9 miles in) has a pub, the White Hart Inn, which has good reviews, and village shop.

A white sign on a wooden pole saying 'the Village shop'.

Public Transport

It is quite possible to do this walk as a day trip, if you don’t mind getting a bus.

Kemble has a train station with direct trains from London Paddington. Journey time is just over an hour. From Cricklade you can get the 51 bus to Swindon (25min) or the 53 bus to Swindon (40min) which has a train station, also with direct trains to London Paddington. Journey time is just under an hour.

As they are on the same train line, if doing this as a day trip and coming from the London direction, you could buy a return ticket to Kemble, then use the same ticket to return from Swindon.

Accommodation

In Cricklade I stayed at the Vale hotel. It was the cheapest thing I could find, but I was quite happy with it. It’s a pub bed and breakfast, and was nicer than I was expecting. Also dog friendly.

If you plan to spend the night in Kemble before starting the walk, right near the source is the Thames Head Inn. It’s also a pub style bed and breakfast. This one is not pet friendly.

Nearest campsite is the Elm Lea Camping which is near the Cotswolds Water Park area towards Cricklade. It’s a bit off the trail

Tips for the walk

Avoid after heavy rain. There is a lot of mud, and flood risk areas.
If you don’t mind the extra load, some wellies in your backpack could be useful, then you wont have to detour if you encounter any flooding.

Waterproof hiking boots recommended.
Upon arriving at Kemble station, I would suggest arranging a taxi to take you to the source to start. Otherwise you end up walking 4 miles along the same stretch of river (2 to reach the source, then 2 back the way you came). It feels as bit like you are going back on yourself (which you kind of are).
Take some change if you fancy picking up some homemade jam on the side of the trail.

A row of jam jars in a box, for sale, on the walk between the source and Cricklade. The box is on a brick wall.

Map for the walk from Kemble to the Source to Cricklade

Route Description: Walk from the Source to Cricklade

If you are planning to walk to the source from Kemble station, then you need to first make sure you exit on the correct side. There are signs there telling you which way to go for the Thames. If you have arrived from east then you need to go over the bridge.

The corner entrance to Kemble station. The walls of the station is made of large stone. — This is the wrong side

Out of the station, follow the road right to the end, then turn left. A little bit further along you will see a sign pointing right into a field. This is the first stile.

A wide road lined with green leafy bushes and trees.

The road on the left and strip of green grass and bushes on the right. There is a wooden trail sign in the bush pointing right.

Keep going straight, over another stile, then straight some more, to reach the trail sign and junction. Right and left both take you along the Thames. To reach the source, turn left.

A wooden trail sign in a junction. One trail leads right and the other left over a wooden bridge.

This is the River Thames. I felt a bit of goosebumps seeing it for the first time on my journey. What struck me was how clear the water was….it almost looked drinkable.

Walk to the Source

Keep going, with the river to your right, and then straight across a road end. The river may disappear a bit further along. There will still be a ditch though which I assume is where it runs when it’s not dried out.

A large grass field with a big bushy tree. — The ditch

Now, if it is dried out, then you need to use your imagination a bit. You will reach a point in a field (see photo below), where you need to turn right. There is a faint trail here. This leads you to the road.

A large grass field with trees on the other side. — Take a diagonal right here. I wonder if these rocks in the ground are one of the other springs for the source.

A dirt trail leading up through the unkempt messy grass to a wooden gate. — The road is just past this gate

Cross over the road, and keep following the trail, which is more obvious now. Keep going straightish, through another gate, and straight some more.

A dirt track through a field. There is a big wooden pole on the left.

A dirt trail leading to a metal gate I a stone wall, with a big grass field on the other side.

A trail through the grass with a big tree with straggly branches on the right on the walk to the source.

I must say, I was beginning to wonder if it was worth it, going to the source. Adding in another couple of miles to the walk which wasn’t needed. There hadn’t been river for a while now, so what was I heading to?

It was pretty through. With all the flowers.

Once I finally arrived, I was actually quite excited. No there wasn’t any river. But instead, some rocks in the ground (which I think is where it comes out of), and a big stone.

A big stone plaque and wooden trail sign marking the start of the walk from the source to Cricklade along the Thames Path. There is a mass of green leafy trees and bushes behind.

I felt a sense of beginning. This is where my journey starts. With the trail sign telling me it’s 240 miles to reach the sea.

Walk from the Source to Cricklade

Once you reach the source, now walk back the way you came. To reach the junction from earlier.

A wooden walkway bridge leading to a grass patch and wooden trail sign, with trees on the other side. — This is the junction from earlier

When you reach it, keep going, then cross over the road and pick the trail up again on the other side a bit to the right.

The trail leading to a wooden gate, with a field on the left and a mass of trees and bushes to the right.

You will now be walking with the river to your right, a little under woods, then out in the open, then you need to turn back into the woods again. This turn isn’t signposted. Basically when you reach a fork, take the right so you leave the edge of the field.

A dirt trail leading through the tall grass with the river to the right. The trail is lined with green leafy trees.

A field with a mass of yellow flowers on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

A spilt in the grass trail with the right trail leading into woodland. — Take a right here

Now keep following the trail until you reach the road.

A dirt path lined with bushes and trees.

A dirt path with a fence and large grass field to the left, and big leafy bushes on the right.

Looking over the stone wall to the road, with a wooden trail sign on the left. The road ahead is lined with green leafy trees.

Turn left on the road, then a short way along turn right to pick up the trail again.

Looking across the road to the bushes and trees on the other side. — The trail is just across the road there

You might find wild garlic here. If you aren’t sure what wild garlic is, if it’s there, you will know. The smell is pretty strong.

A dirt trail leading through the woods, lined with wild garlic bushes on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

When you reach the next road, turn right to walk through a quaint little village with stone and flint houses. Then take a right at the junction.

A wooden trail signpost next to a stone wall with the road to the left. There are some stone walled houses visible ahead by the road.

A stone walled bus shelter with a trail acorn on the wall. There are trees to the right. — A little acorn Thames Path sign

Looking straight along the road to some quaint stone walled cottages on the other side, partway through the walk from the source to Cricklade. There are a few trees with a mix of red and green leaves lining the road.

Looking across the road to a junction with a green grass square in the middle. There are stone walled houses on the tore side of the junction. — Turn right here

It’s a bit more road walking, then you need to keep an eye out for the river on the left. It’s very missable.

A road leading straight with a stone wall on the left, and stone walled houses on the other side.

A road on the right and bench and mass of green leafy trees and bushes on the left. — Turn left here to get back onto the trail

Follow the river

Get onto the trail again, so the river is now on your left, with enviable houses on the other side. This bit can be quite muddy.

A muddy trail leading straight ahead on the right, with the river to the left on the walk from the source to Cricklade. On the other side of the river is a green of someone's garden, and a big tree with red leaves. The trail on this side is lined with tall grass, and bug bushes to the right.

You now have a nice stretch following the river.

A thin dirt trail on the right and wiver to the left, leading through the woodland trees.

A grass trail on the right, with the river to the left. The trail is lined with wire fence on both sides.

Looking along the river with reflections of the clouds from the sky above.

Lose the river

When you reach the gate in a field, go through it, then through a bit of woods, over a bridge, then along the edge of another field.

A large field with small white flowers, and a metal gate ahead. — Go through that gate

A thin dirt trail leading over a wooden bridge, partially engulfed by green leafy bushes and trees.

A large green grass field with a wind tower in the middle and a red bricked house on the other side, on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

When you reach the corner of this field, it’s not signposted, but stay straight to go through a gate, then turn right. Now walk around the edge of this field towards those buildings you will see in the distance.

A large grass field with rugged farm house buildings on the other side.

Find the river then lose it again

Stay in this field (as in, don’t go over any bridges you see). The river will be on your right now.

The river which looks like a small stream running through the field with farm buildings on the other side, on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

Past the buildings go through the gate, and keep going straight.

This is where I saw some horses and swans.

Two swans in the river, with a large grass field on the other side.

Keep going along the edge of the fields, then with a stick fence to your right. When you see a wooden gate next to the stick fence, go through it.

Looking across the dark green grass field to two houses on the other side. One house has a red roof, the other has a brown roof.

A wooden trail sign pointing along the grass trail next to a stick wall. There are green bushes on the other side of the wall hanging over on this side.

A wooden gate with a stick wall on the right and bushes to the left. There are a few small bushes and plants growing below the gate.

After another field, and over the bridge, turn left. This turn isn’t obvious (I initially went straight).

A thin trail through the grass, with a brown crop field on the left, and trees to the right.

Looking g along a wooden bridge to a crop field on the other side. There are green leafy bushes either side of the bridge. — This is looking back over the bridge

The halfway point in the walk from the Source to Cricklade

Keep going with the lake to your right, then when you reach the road, turn right, then turn left at the junction.

Looking across a large lake partway through the walk from the Source to Cricklade. There are bush and tree branches hanging in the frame.

A muddy dirt trail surround. by green leafy bushes, plants, and trees. Part of a wooden fence is visible on the left.

Looking along a road as makes a curve on the right to left. The road is lined with grass, bushes, and trees. — Turn right on this road

A wide path running along the left side of the road. The path is lined with tall grass, and there are big bushes and overhanging trees to the left. — Then this is the road you turned left on

After a little roadside walking, turn right at the Lower Mill Estate, and then follow the road all the way through. Somewhere along here is the halfway point in the walk from the Source to Cricklade.

A sign on a metal pole pointing right to Lower Mill Estate. The sign is surround by bushes, and there is a walking path on the right. — Turn right here

A row of stone walled hoses with a hedge in front and the river below, when walking from the source to Cricklade.

When you reach the bridge, go over it and turn left.

A bridge with metal railings leading over the river. There is a mass of trees and bushes with green leaves to the left and on the other side of the bridge ahead.

A wooden trail Thames Path signpost with red ivy growing up it.

More river and lunch

You now have another nice stretch of riverside walking. I found it quite peaceful and lovely along here, with all the birds chirping. I was also getting hungry and decided that the next bench I found would be my lunch spot….

A dirt path lined with green grass, bushes and trees forming a tree tunnel.

A wide dirt path on the right, and bushes on the left with a wooden trail signpost coming out of them. There is a metal gate ahead with green leafy tree branches hanging over it.

A narrow dirt trail lined with bushes, leading towards stone walled houses ahead, partway through the walk from the source to Cricklade. There is a green grass field to the right and some trees on the left.

When you reach the road, cross over and keep going to reach a cute little village….Which has a bench. This did nicely. The homemade jam is along here too. I was gutted I didnt have any change. Who carries change now days? Probably for the best, not to add to my load.

The river on the left, lined with neatly cute strips of grass. There is a path on the right, with houses lining it. There are some hoses ahead on the left on the other side of the river. — I sat just here for lunch

The river on the left with a strip of grass on the right side of it, There is a swan in the river. There is a road on the right leading towards a white walled house on the end. There is a mass of green leafed trees on the left side of the river with a partially hidden house within them.

Ashton Keynes

Follow the road through the housing area (there are two road, you take the right one). When you reach the main road, turn right, to walk through the village. The little river on the right is the Thames.

A strip of crass lining the road corner, with a stature on the grass. The river is to the right, with a wall and green leafy tree on the right side. — Turn right here

What I found quite special and quaint was how a bit further along, there were little bridges over it leading to people’s homes. How wonderful would that be to live there…although, I wonder what the flood risk is.

The river with a small brick wall on the left, and stone houses with green grass lawns to the right on the walk from the source to Cricklade.

It’s a fair bit of walking along this main road, to reach the next turn. It’s signposted, but in case it’s not, you want to turn left onto Happy Land. Yes, this is the road name.

A wooden trail signpost, and white signpost behind it pointing left to walk to Cricklade.

A road sign saying 'happy land' sitting on the bush.

Keep going, then at the road bend, keep left.

A road junction, with a field and trees on the corner. — Go left here

Keep going some more, to reach the next sign which directs you onto a path on the right (see photo below).

A road on the left, and path on the right. The path and road are separated by bushes. — Then pick up the trail on the right here

Cross over another road, and through the gate into a large field. I couldn’t see any signs telling you which way to go here, but you go straight across and through a gate on the other side.

A wooden gate and fence, with a dirt trail leading through it, and tree leaves hanging in the frame.

More lakes and lots of junctions

Through here, there is a fork which which isn’t signposted. Take the right (see photo below).

A trail split in the grass, leading to trees ahead. — Take the right fork here

Now follow any acorn signs and you will soon be walking with a big lake to your left.

Looking over the tall grass to a lake, when walking between the source and Cricklade.

A thin dirt trail lined with tall grass and bushes, and a wire fence on the left.

You are going to navigate around some lakes now. I zoned out a little here, but it was pretty well signposted….sort of. See photos below for the turns:

Turn left here.

A dirt trail t-junction, lined with hedges on the other side. There is a wooden trail signpost on the right.

The next turn is less obvious. You need to turn right. There is a quicksand warning sign here, which surprised me. I thought quicksand was reserved for exotic places.

A dirt trail leading straight ahead, lined with tall grass patches and hedges. — Turn right here

A partially hidden wooden trail signpost in the green leafy hedge. — This is the hidden and illegible sign

A sign saying 'danger quicksand', in front of a bush.

A narrow trail on the left, with a wire fence and big grass field on the right.

Keep following this same trail for a little way now, then at the big gate, don’t go through. Turn right instead.

A dirt trail leading straight ahead, lined with tall green leafy bushes.

Looking past some thin tree branches to a large lake.

A dirt trail with puddles, surrounded by bushes and trees.

A metal gate across the muddy dirt trail. — Don’t go through this gate. Turn right.

A narrow trail lined with green leafy bushes and trees.

Turn left at the next t-junction:

A dirt trail junction, lined with green leafy bushes.

A dirt trail leading straight ahead, lined with trees and bushes with white flowers.

Then turn right at the next one with an information board. I went to have a look but saw a big image of an insect so backed away and hurried along the trail.

A wooden trail signpost in front of a mass of woodland trees and bushes.

A dirt trail leading straight, and lined with tall grass and green leafy bushes.

At the next junction, turn right. Now if you stay on this path, it will lead you all the way to Cricklade. This is important. This isn’t the officially route, but there is a field coming up which could be flooded, so this is the alternative option.

A wooden signpost on the other side of the trail, pointing left and right. There is an information board next to the sign. There are trees and bushes behind the signs. — Turn right here, and following this path will take you all the way to Cricklade

A deer hoof sign on a wooden stump, surrounded by green leafy bushes. — Does this mean there are deer about?

The flooded field

To follow the official path, turn left before the bridge and follow the river. Keep following it as it turns right.

A wide dirt trail leading straight, with a metal gate on the left, and two people walking to the gate. — Turn left here

The river on the right, and wide muddy patch on the left leading into a field near the end of the walk from the source to Cricklade. There are three people walking through the metal gate into the field.

A guy here told me about some swans the other way. And that I should go check them out. I said no. I had now been walking about 14 miles and I was not about to walk a step further than I had to. I haven’t mentioned that a few miles back I started to feel unwell. I brushed it off as being tired. I didn’t know yet that it would get worse and I would spend the rest of the trip feeling like death.

Anyway, when I entered this field, something was different about it. The ground was boggy, with the river leaching into to. I kept going though. Cricklade was so close.

It was right on the other side that it became apparent I wasn’t getting through. It was full on flooded. There was no option but to turn back and take the other route. I was not happy. So much for not walking a step further than I had to.

Walk to Cricklade

However, if you stay following this trail, it should lead you to Cricklade. If you have to take the other path, it’s nice and easy if that’s any consolation.

A long straight bridlepath, surrounded by masses of green leafy bushes and trees. — The other path to Cricklade

Once you reach the end, there is a bit of navigating to get into the town centre. First walk around the edge of the sports field, then take a left on W Mill Lane. At the junction, turn right, then take the first left onto Bath Road. Follow this to the end and you will reach the High Street. The Vale (where I stayed) is right on the corner which was handy.

A road lined with stone cottages and cream walled buildings in Cricklade.

Read day two: Cricklade to Lechlade