Today started off as a disaster. I hadn’t planned to do this coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton. I had planned something near Dartmouth. The thing is, it’s Easter Weekend. I knew that buses in the countryside would be sparse, but according to Google Maps, there would still be buses running to where I wanted to go.
So off I went to the bus stop and waited. 40 min past when the bus had been due, there was still no bus. I started to wonder if any where actually coming. I then realised I hadn’t seen any buses, for any route. With bad internet signal, I spent another 15minutes trying to get online to check the official bus website. Indeed, there were no buses running today. Actually, there were some buses to other destinations at other bus stops, but they all stopped running at 1pm. It was already past 12.
Ok, what next?
Where could I go? Trains should be running. Dartmoor is about 10min away on train so that seemed like the perfect solution….
Until I saw that trains to Dartmoor are running once every 2 hours, and I just missed one. Ok, where else? I had already walked all of the coastline within my vicinity, so the next best option would be Exmouth….
I arrived in Exmouth 2.5 hours later.
But before that…
On the train on my way too Exmouth, I had a look on my map. I was intending to do something circular, to end up back at the train station. You know, because of the buses. That’s when I saw the next town along from Exmouth is Budleigh Salterton, but I didn’t know the distance, did I really want to walk there and back? Out of curiosity I checked the bus schedule, and to my delight, buses were still running from Budleigh to Exmouth! The last one was at 5. By the time I arrived in Exmouth, that would give me 2.5 hours to do it. Could I do it? I would hate to arrive in Budleigh Salterton, having missed the last bus back to Exmouth, and have to walk back.
As I said, at this point I had no idea of the distance or hilliness of the route. I would asses the situation when out there.
You already know I made it to Budleigh, but just pretend you don’t.
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What to expect on the coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton
I said that today started off as a disaster. Well, it all got turned around and I had a fantastic enjoyable walk. There were two sections of the walk I wasn’t crazy about, but that was more to do with the fact that it’s Easter, and these areas were packed with people. Take that away, and it’s a lovely walk with fantastic large red cliff views and some humungous beaches.
Something I saw which I have never seen before, was red sea. The sea was actually red. Probably sediment from the cliffs. It was so so beautiful the way the red meets the blue. It was also a foggy day, which added to the beauty.
The coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton is a little hilly, but not a crazy amount, a gentle one for the South West Coast Path. I would actually say this walk is easy. It’s also not that long, so you could make a day of it and walk there and back.
Logistics for the coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton
- Start: Exmouth
- Finish: Budleigh Salterton
- How to get there: Exmouth is a branch of the Great Western Railway line. You can get a train here from Exeter. Journey time is about 30min. Bus number 357 will get you back to Exmouth from Budleigh.
- Distance: 5 miles
- Time: 1h 40min
- Elevation: Highest point is about 121m. With the ups and downs you will walk up about 208m
- Terrain: Some sand, grass, dirt trail, rocks, asphalt.
- Difficulty: Easy
- Amenities: Everything at Exmouth. A cafe at Sandy Bay Beach. Various cafes, fish and chips shops, mini supermarket at at Budleigh.
Tips for the coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton
- As it’s not too long, you could walk there and back. But if you do want to just do one way, I would walk the same direction as me, from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton. This is for two reasons: If you walk in the direction of Budleigh Salterton to Exmouth, there is a long long uphill at the start. If you walk in my direction, the hill is broken up with one short but steep bit at the end. So it’s easier to manage. You also get a fantastic view to Budleigh Salterton beach in this direction.
- The ground on the hill leading into Budleigh Salterton is a bit more rugged and uneven, so hiking shoes would be more comfortable. However, don’t worry too much, as trainers will do.
- The walk takes you along a big popular beach and past a holiday park, so if you prefer less people, then avoid holiday periods. Saying that, the rest of the route wasn’t busy.
- Once you have finished the walk, it might be cool to see it all again from a different perspective. This Jurassic Coast boat tour takes you past all those red cliffs to reach Budleigh Salterton. Groups are kept small, so it will feel nice and private.
Map for the coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton
More walk ideas near Exmouth and Budleigh Salterton will be at the end
If you are staying in Exmouth, you can jump onto some cool tours of the area. This boat tour takes you the other way along the coast, with a chance to spot some seals and dolphins. You will also stop by one of the beaches, for a chance to take a dip in the sea.
A Guide To The Coastal Walk From Exmouth To Budleigh Salterton
If starting from Exmouth station, head over to the coast. When I arrived, I just followed the crowds of people from the train. I figured they would all be heading that way.
Once there, walk along the promenade with the beach to your right. This section of the walk is a very long stretch. At first you don’t see much ahead except beach, road and promendad, but some way further along, you start to get the red cliff view.
I wasn’t fond of this bit. It was crowded, long and I had headwind. I only had 2.5 hours, and this section cost me 30min. I was not pleased.
Walk from Exmouth Beach up onto the clifftop
At the end, there are 2 options to get up top. You should see the steps leading up from the promenade, or you could go over to the cliffside steps on the beach. It looks like these steps are only accessible at low tide.
You get a fantastic view from up here in both directions of the vast stretch of sand.
Walk from Exmouth to Orcombe Point and Sandy Bay
Continue following the coast path, and you will first reach Orcombe Point and The Geoneedle.
Fun Fact: Orcombe Point is the most westerly point of the Jurassic Coast.
Fun fact 2: The Geeoneedle is made up of the different types of rock found along this coastline.
For the next while, the views disappear as you are either walking between hedges or on a section of cliff where you can’t see anything. I don’t know wether that’s just the way it is, or if it was due to the fog. Here is a viewpoint bench and the view.
Sandy Bay
After a bit, you will then start to descend with a view ahead to Sandy Bay.
The first thing I actually saw was red cliffs. Nothing else. But I could hear children somewhere down below. To look at, all seemed remote, but my ears where telling me otherwise.
I then turned a corner, and got a view down to the beach and the holiday park. Oh dear.
You can probably guess that this was the other part of the walk between Exmouth and Budleigh Salterton I didn’t like. I had just got over the chaos at Exmouth. I wasn’t ready for this.
The halfway point on the coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton?
At this point, I still didn’t know how far I would be walking. Sandy Bay was sort of the area I was looking to turn back on, if I decided to make the walk circular.
When I arrived down the bottom, I saw a signpost saying 2.5 miles to Budleigh Salterton. I checked my phone. I had walked exactly 2.5 miles to get here, and had done it in under an hour. By my calculation I could do it. I could make it to Budleigh by 5, with some time to spare before the last bus back.
I was however, counting on the fact that there would be no surprise hills. 2.5 miles isn’t far….unless it’s the South West Coast Path.
Walk through Sandy Bay
The walk through the holiday park was long. Longer than it looks, because what you can’t see from here, is how far it goes on for. You think you can, but you cant.
Sticking to the edge, the trail made a hidden turn behind one of the trailers, took me through a cafe seating area, and then along the perimeter of MOD ground.
After a short but steep uphill, it felt like I would leave the park, but no. Once up top, I got a view across to a massive field of trailers, but worse, a giant cliff ahead.
The cliff
Those surprise hills I was worried about came to fruition. I stood and stared at the cliff. It was beautiful and terrifying at the same time. After some staring, I realised something. The cliff hill goes up, and straight down all the way to a cluster of houses which I suspected was Budleigh. One hill. I just had to walk up one, and then it was downhill for the home stretch.
Walk up the big cliff hill
I took a shortcut and headed straight across the field. I know I’m trying to keep to the coast path, but I needed to get out of this holiday park hell. Once across the other side, I started the ascent.
It’s a pretty easy ascent. It’s kind of spread out. Some up, then some flat to catch your breath, before the next up. The only steep bit is towards the end of it. The whole time with fantastic views back.
Walk downhill to towards Budleigh Salterton
After reaching the top, it’s straight back down, and down for the rest of the way. My gosh it was bliss. With all the walks I have been doing along the coast path in Devon, nothing has been this kind to me. It’s all ups and downs, ups and downs. I kept waiting for the surprise uphill though. I felt like I was being lulled into a false sense of security.
The final stretch of the coastal walk from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton
Somewhere on the walk downhill, you get a view way into the distance of Budleigh Salterton Beach. It felt like a sort of mirage with the fog.
Apart from that, there aren’t many views as you walk down, apart from bush and trees. Then as you near the bottom, you will get a grand reveal of the beach.
Back to Exmouth
I checked my time on arrival, I was so early, I could even catch the second to last bus off the day (which was in 10min). I decided to go for that one, just incase the last one got cancelled. This gave me some breathing space.
I went to where my map said there is a bus stop. There was nothing there. No sign. No nothing. I circled around. Maybe my sat nav was off? I couldn’t figure it out, so I called out to what seemed to be a local across the road. She confirmed this is correct. This empty space is a bus stop.
The bus came early, and left early. Thank god I hadn’t arrived with minutes to spare for the last bus. If they like to arrive and leave early, that would have been tragic.
A single ticket to Exmouth…£4.50?! Are you kidding me. For that price, I could get day pass to use as many buses as I want where I’m staying in Torbay.
More walk ideas near Exmouth and Budleigh Salterton along the coast path
Teignmouth to Dawlish Warren – Just across the water from Exmouth, you could try out this walk. It’s pretty easy and takes you along the railway line, with the gorgeous red cliffs.
Babbacombe to Teignmouth – This is a much more challenging walk, with tonnes of hills and some secret beach coves.
9 day Jurassic Coast walking tour – If you have the time, you could join onto this walking tour which takes you all along the coast from Budley Salterton to Pool. You will get to see some of the most dramatic bits of the England Coastline on this one. Including some of my favourite sections.
For more walking ideas in Devon, you could check out the Visit Devon website.
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