Epic Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill (Dragon's Back) walk

The first time I attempted the Chrome Hill ‘Dragon’s Back’ walk, last Autumn, I thought I was going to die. No jokes. That time I approached from the other direction, which was my first mistake. It was also raining, which was my second mistake.…

What I’m going to do in this guide, is first give you an overview of the Chrome Hill ‘Dragon’s Back’ circular walk, with full logistics, a map, useful tips, and exactly what went wrong the first time, and how I did it this time, learning from my mistakes. I will then go on to describe the route step by step, the exact way you should do it. At the end, I will provide suggestions for other walks I recommend.

What to expect on the Chrome Hill circular walk

Located in the Peak District, this walk first takes you up Chrome Hill. You will then tackle Parkhouse Hill, which is much smaller, but just as aggressive, if not more. Aggressive being the operative word.

From the right angle, the hills look like a Dragon’s Back, hence the name.

Looking across the green grass fields to Chrome hill and Parkhouse hill on the way to the start of the walk. There are sheep grazing in the field.

Looking across the yellow and green fields to Chrome hill, in the shape of a dragons back, at the start of the walk. — This one is Chrome Hill

Looking across the crop field to the pointy Parkhouse hill at the start of the walk. — This one is Parkhouse hill

So, the walk starts off fairly easy, through a few fields and up some small hills, as you make you way around to the start of the trail up Chrome Hill. As you make your ascent, you will be faced with extreme ruggedness, steepness with sheer drops, slippy limestone, and loose rocks.

The rugged, rocky path when walking up Chrome Hill.

Looking along the side of Chrome Hill, with a narrow path cutting through a gap, on there walk along the top.

The walk down off Chrome Hill is much easier, mostly on grass, giving your anxiety a chance to calm down.

Looking down towards Parkhouse hill, from the top of Chrome Hill, halfway through the walk.

Then straight after, you have Parkhouse Hill. The trail up is the same, but more, and will involve a bit of a scramble.

A rugged rocky trail leading up the side of Parkhouse Hill, with a few people walking up the trail.

The rugged and rocky path leading up to the top of Parkhouse hill, with a few people visible, walking along the top.

If you made it to the top of Parkhouse Hill, you will have a nice little bit of ridge walking, before the descent, which is also steep and slippy. After this, you have a nice gentle walk, with a view to the monstrous Chrome Hill, as you make your way back to the start.

Looking across the the Dragon's Back formation of Chrome Hill, on the walk along the top of Parkhouse Hill.

Looking down the steep drop down the side of the hill, with green grass fields at the bottom.

How long is the walk?

The full Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill ‘Dragon’s Back’ circular walk is 4.5 miles, and took me just under two hours to complete.

If you like walking along ridges, with grand views, then I highly recommend your try out Mam Tor and the Great Ridge.

Looking along the Dragon's Back formation of Chrome Hill, on the walk along the top.

A rock hole covered in grass and a few red flowers, with a view to the fields below through the gap.

Where is the best place to park to walk up Chrome Hill?

The best place to start the walk, is from Hollinsclough. There is no car park, but you can just park on the roadside for free. From here, you get the full view of the Dragon’s Back Ridge.

It’s also a good starting point, to walk the route starting with Chrome Hill first (this is important)….

A field on the right and road on the left, with a stone wall dividing them, There are cars parked on the side of the road. There is a cottage to the right in the field. — This is where you can park to walk to Chrome Hill

Looking across the grass field to Chrome Hill on the other side, at the parking place for the start of the walk. There are a few cottages on the other side of the field.

Looking across the field towards Parkhouse Hill, at the parking spot, at the start of the walk.

What went wrong the first time?

Before heading out the first time I attempted the Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill walk, I had read two things. Don’t do it after rain, and don’t approach from the south east (Parkhouse Hill side first). I did both these things. We had parked in Earl Sterndale, which meant I had to approach from this direction.

Once we reached the bottom of Parkhouse Hill, Ollie took one look at it and said ‘no’. He then proceeded to walk around to head to Chrome Hill.

I proceeded to make my way up, thinking to myself how glad I was, that I wasn’t walking down this section. Little did I know that this was the easy bit.

Trying to get down

Once I made it to the other side, with a view to the majestic Chrome Hill ahead, I started the walk down. Faced with extreme steepness, loose rocks and flat limestone, I wasn’t going to admit defeat, so kept going. I didn’t make it far before I realised I was in a bit of a predicament and started to panic. I couldn’t figure out where to put my foot next, without slipping and falling to my death.

Looking across the Chrome Hill, after the walk up Parkhouse hill, with a peach coloured sunset sky.

Looking down the steep hillside, with rocky limestone, the the grass fields at the bottom. — The way down off Parkshouse Hill

So I decided to head back up. Only, I couldn’t figure out how to get up. I was partway down the limestone. Wether I went up or down, I was one misjudgement of foot placement away from death.

The fact that I knew more rain was coming soon, added to my anxiety. I looked down to some of the houses in the valley, and wondered if the locals were looking up at me thinking ‘who is this stupid girl’.

As I am still alive, you know I made it. As I followed the ridge back, my legs were shaking. I had to scoot down on my bum when on the other side. Not just because of my shaking legs, but because it was also very slippy and wet.

If you like a bit of a scramble, then you might like the Trinnacle Trail. That one involves scrambling up a river with waterfalls, to reach the unique and impressive Trinnacle Rock

After walking around the bottom, I walked halfway up Chrome Hill, and sat down. Looking at the beast of Parkhouse Hill ahead of me.

I was done. I couldn’t do any more. So sat on the side of Chrome Hill, watching the beautiful pink sunset colours, before walking back to the car.

Logistics for the Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill walk

Start/Finish: Hollinsclough
Where is it: Located near Buxton, in the Peak District National Park. Post code for Hollinsclough is SK17 0RH. It’s in the southern area of the Peak District.
Distance: 4.5 miles circular
Time: It took me just under 2h to walk the full route.

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging
Terrain: Loose rocks, limestone, dirt trail, grass, some road.
Dog friendly: There are sheep about, around the bottom of Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill. The first time I came here, there was also cows.
Time of year: I did the Chrome Hill circular walk in late spring
Amenities: Hollinsclough has a tea room. Then there is a little hut with refreshments and ice cream right at the end. That’s it.

Tips for the hike

If starting from Hollinsclough, do the route clockwise. This will allow you to walk up the toughest, most precarious bits of Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill, instead of down.
Following on from above, start the route form Hollinsclough. You get the best ‘Dragon’s Back’ view from here.
Don’t walk Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill after any rain. It’s very dangerous when wet.

Hiking boots, due to the terrain.
If you are scared of heights, then this might not be the walk for you.
After Chrome Hill, when you are at the bottom of Parkhouse Hill, if you decide it’s not for you, then just walk around it.
Take layers. The top of both hills can get very very windy. We were in a heat wave when I did it, but I still needed to put layers on when traversing the tops.

When making the ascents up both hills, keep an eye on your footing.
Ok, I have really hammered on about the negatives, however, when I attempted it the second time, in dry weather, and the ‘correct’ direction, it was a lot more manageable, and I didn’t feel too unsafe…..Just a little bit unsafe.

A wooden refreshment hut, with a person walking out of it with their dog.

Map for the Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill circular walk

You can see my more detailed route map for the full Chrome Hill circular walk on Alltrails.

Read more Best walks in the Peak District

Route Description for the Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill walk

To get to the start of Chrome Hill, go to the centre of the village, and walk up the hill, past the tea room. Then, a short way up the road, go through the gate on the right, which will lead you onto a field hill, with a trail running across it.

A road, with a big green hedge bush to the left and a red telephone box to the right. There is a car driving along the road ahead, and cars parked on the left side of the road ahead.

A small green roundabout with a wooden bench in the middle, and stone walled cottages on the other side of the road, in Hollinsclough. — The village centre

A road leading uphill, with a stone walled budding with a blue barn door to the left, and tall bushes and trees to the right.

A small wooden gate, and big metal gate in the stone wall. There is a pile of tires on the other side of the gate on the right, and a tree on the other side on the left.

A thin trail leading under the tree with white flowers, leading along the side of a grass hill.

As you walk along this trail, you will have a wonderful view to Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill to your right.

Looking across the grass field and then yellow crop field, to Chrome Hill and Parkhouse hill, in the shape of a dragon's back, partway through the walk.

Keep going all the way to the other side, and through the little wooden get, then up the hill to the ornate gate.

A thin trail leading along the side of a grass hill, with a hill ahead to the right.

Looking down the grass hill, to a mass of trees at the bottom, and a hill rising up on the other side. — You are heading to that trail you can see past the trees

Looking down the hill to a wooden gate leading over a bridge. The bridge is surrounded by masses of green leafy trees.

An ornate metal gate, surrounded by green leaves and a leaning tree on the left.

Through the second gate, follow the main trail up the hill to the left (after you turn left, there is a junction, take the right one).

A grass field with a path ahead to the right, past a group of trees.

A rugged dirt path leading up the grass hill. with bushes and trees ahead. — Go right here

It’s then a little bit of an uphill here, to reach the main path, where you turn left.

A rigged dirt trail winding up the hill, surround by tall grass and short trees.

A gravel type path leading straight and to the right, lined with grass, and some trees over to the left. — This is after you turn left, onto the main path

Make sure to look back for another wonderful view of the Dragon’s Back.

A track path leading straight, with a view to Chrome Hill and Parkhouse hill ahead in the distance. There is a sign on the left with red writing saying 'Private Land, no access'.

The path of least resistance

Going forwards, there are a few different options to walk to Chrome Hill. I hadn’t yet decided which I would take. When I got to the next junction through the gate, I had a look at one of the options, and it looked very off piste. Given my last experience when I attempted the Dragon’s Back walk, I decided to stick with the easy route.

A grass path leading to a metal gate in a stone wall. There is a small hill rising up behind with a few trees on it.

Easy does not mean boring though. The easy route is sticking to the main path all the way to the road, which has some wonderful views to the surrounding hills and valley.

A rugged path curving ahead to the left, with trees and bushes to the right and a drop down the hill tp the left.

Looking across the underling hills and valley, with trees dotted about, on the circular walk to Chrome Hill.

Keep going and keep going, passing by a cottage, all the way to the road.

A rigged path leading up to a stone walled cottage. There is a hill up the right side of the path, and a big tree on the left.

Looking across the undulating grass fields and hills, with trees dotted about and a cottage on the hill in the distance.

A gravel type path winding ahead, with a hill leading up the right side, and hill leading down the left side.

A gravel track leading through and opening in the wall and gate, to the main road ahead. The track is surround by grass fields.

When you reach the road, keep going straight along it, then a very short way along, there is a gap for very thin people in the stone wall to the right. Try and fit through that, and keep going straight.

Looking across the tall grass to a stone wall, and green grass hill on the other side.

A large grass field with a metal gate and wire fence ahead, and hill rising up in the distance.

You will see a big metal gate ahead. When I got to this gate, I realised it was locked, and the correct gate it a bit more to the left. I was too lazy to walk those extra meters, so just climbed over it.

Walk to the bottom of Chrome Hill

Once through either gate, continue across the hill in a diagonal right, to reach the main path and next gate.

Looking up the large grass hill fields, with a couple of people walking in the distance. — Go to where those people are

The rugged path leading towards two wooden gates, with a hill side field on the other side.

Now you walk on an invisible grass path to reach an opening in the stone wall ahead, with another wonderful and a scary view to Chrome Hill.

A grass hill with a stone wall and gate ahead.

Cross the next field, to the next gap in the stone wall, then this time walk towards the top of the hill, but a bit more to the right.

A small gap in the stone wall, which cutes across the grass field. There is a big green leafy tree on the other side of the wall on the right and two people walking up the hill to the left.

If you see this gate and sign ahead, you want to actually walk to the right of it, like the people in the second photo are doing:

A grass field with a stone wall and wooden gate ahead. — Don’t go through there. Turn right instead to walk towards Chrome Hill.

A large grass field, with undulating hills in the distance. There are two people walking across the field ahead.

If you get confused with everything I just said, just make sure you are walking so that you curve around to the right, to eventually be heading in the direction of Chrome Hill.

At the next gate, there will be an arrow telling you the direction to go.

A wooden gate, with a grass field on the other side, on the walk towards Chrome hill, which you can see rising up in the distance.

Now walk down the hill, to reach the gate on the left, which leads you onto the the trail to get you to the bottom of Chrome Hill.

Looking along the grass hillside, on the walk towards towards Chrome hill ahead.

A wooden gate, with a narrow trail on the other side, leading towards a craggy hill ahead.

Follow this, past the interesting water fountain, to reach the gate in the stone wall….And now it begins.

A brick and stone, square shaped water fountain, surrounded by tufts of grass, with a view to the valley and hills behind.

A wooden walking leading towards a stone wall, m and a craggy hill ahead, with multiple pointy peaks.

Walk up Chrome Hill

Go left through the gate, and make you way up. The trail starts off grassy, and then becomes more rocky/stoney, and narrow. It will weave you up, in and out of the humps, sometimes quite precariously.

Walking up a narrow trail leading up towards the craggy top of Chrome Hill.

A rocky path leading up along the top of the hill., with a steep drop down the right side.

A narrow trail leading between the bumps of Chrome Hill, on the walk along the top.

A narrow trail leading up to the peak of Chrome Hill ahead, on the walk along the top. There is a steep drop down the right side, which is covered in green grass.

A rocky steep uphill, with patches of grass.

I had taken my layers off earlier, but the wind really picked up as I made my way up Chrome Hill. Usually when I walk up a hill, I need to take layers off, but in this instance, they had to go back on.

You have lovely views as you make you way up Chrome Hill, but the best is when you reach the top, and you can see down to the next section of the walk. Parkhouse Hill.

Looking down to green grass fields as far as the eye can see, on the walk along the top of Chrome Hill. Some of the fields are divided by trees.

Looking down towards the pointy peak of Parkhouse Hill, on the walk along the top of Chrome Hill. the landscape is a mass of green. — That’s Parkhouse hill ahead

The walk up Chrome Hill is a bit of a taster for what comes next. So you can decide how you want to proceed. Parkhouse Hill is tougher.

Walk down off Chrome Hill

To descend Chrome Hill, its a nice relatively easy downhill walk on (mostly) grass. It’s still very steep, but does feel a lot safer.

You will be able to see a trail on the ridge below. That’s where you are heading, which will lead you down to the road.

A big tree on the left, and a trail along a ridge ahead, leading towards Parkhouse Hill. Everything is the colour green.

A field with a road running across the edge of it ahead, and a big green grass field on the other side, with Parkhouse Hill rising up in the field. There are two people walking along the road.

Walk up (or around) Parkhouse Hill

To start the ascent up Parkhouse Hill, walk to the left of it. This bit is surprisingly steep. Then partway up, keep an eye out for the little trail to the right. If you decide not to walk up it, then just walk around the bottom.

A narrow trail leading up a steep grass hill, with a few people visible walking along the top.

When you get to the mini junction, take the left up the rugged limestone rocks.

Two people walking up the steep rocky trail on the grass hillside.

Keep going, as the rugged ‘path’ leads you around the humps, to reach the tough bit. This is the section I got stuck in last time. You will need to find nooks to put your feet in. I don’t have a photo going up this bit as I needed all my focus.

Looking up along the grass covered hillside ridge of Parkhouse Hill, on the walk up to the top. There is a person standing on the right side, and some people visible in the distance, walking along the top.

The rocky, steep, peak of Parkhosue hill, with a few people walking up it.

Once you make it up this section, you still have a bit more to walk to make it to the top, but you can breath for a moment, to take in the view of Chrome Hill behind.

Looking down to a mass of green fields leading towards Chrome Hill ahead, after the walk to the top of Parkhouse Hill. There is a road through the fields between the two hills below.

You now need to walk around the right side of the big rocks, to reach the trail, which will guide you all the way to the top, where you will have another wonderful view to Chrome Hill.

A rocky craggy hill leading up the left side.

A narrow path leading up the hill, with a craggy peak on the left.

Walk down off Parkhouse Hill

Now it’s a bit of ridge walking across the top of Parkhouse Hill, to reach the trail down on the other side.

A narrow rugged path along the ridge, when walking along the top of Parkhouse Hill, with a view to green grass fields, and undulating hills ahead.

The way down is also very steep, and maybe a bit slippy. So don’t be afraid to do some bum scooting.

As you near the bottom of the hill, you will reach a trail, which you turn right on, which will guide you around Parkhouse Hill.

A narrow trail curving around the bottom of the hills side, with a couple of small trees next to the trail ahead, and fields filled with trees in the distance.

The hard parts are now over.

As you walk around, you will pass by a big field to your left. At some point, make your way across the field in a diagonal. Roughly your 11 o’clock. This will lead you to the road, where you turn right.

A road leading straight, with a grass field on the right, stone wall on the left, and big hill rising up ahead.

Head back to Hollinsclough

Walk along the road, with Chrome Hill ahead of you. Then at the junction, take the left path, following the sign to Hollinsclough.

The road curving right, with a gravel path leading off it to the left. There is a grass field on the left side, with a wore fence along the edge, and wooden trail signpost. There is a big grass hill ahead in the distance. — Go left here

Through the pillars, keep right at the next junction, then stay following this main path all the way to the next sign for Hollinsclough.

A split in the gravel path, with one spout going straight and the other going left. The path runs through a large grass field. — Go right here

A gravel path winding ahead, with a big puddle of water in the middle of it ahead. There is a small grass hill bank to the left of the path, and a wooden bridge ahead.

A wooden trail signpost infant of a white cherry blossom tree, with a big white arrow pointing left.

At the sign, follow it to the left. This will lead you past the little shop, where you can pick up some ice cream, before reaching the road.

At the road, turn right, and this will lead you back into Hollinsclough.

A road lined with bushes, flowers, and trees, and a stone wall on the left side.

More walks near Chrome Hill that I recommend

Also in the southern area of the Peak District, you have Thor’s Cave. I have two routes you can try for that one. The easier one that just takes you to the cave, and the longer one which also involves a lovely walk through the Manifold Valley.

Sticking with the Dragon fairytale theme, you should definitely check out Lud’s Church. It’s the most mystical gorge I have ever seen. You can walk Lud’s Church the easier short way, or do the longer way via The Roaches, which gives you views as well.

Another one with both gorge vibes and views, is this route through Padley Gorge. It’s also fairly short, but packs in a lot of cool sights.

I have done a lot of routes out here, which I summarise on my Peak District walks guide here. You can read about them all side by side, to find the ones that you like the sound of the most.

Pin the Chrome Hill ‘Dragon’s Back’ hike guide for later:

How to Hike the Dragon's Back in the Peak District National Park.

How to Hike the Dragon's Back in the Peak District.

For more about the Peak District, you can check out the official Peak District website.

Epic Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill (Dragon’s Back) walk