Over half a year later, I made it back to Dorset to walk from Corfe Village to Chapman’s Pool, a wonderful hidden secluded beach only accessible by hiking or boat.
My last attempt at it was when I was out here following the Purbeck Way. This was the final stretch, except a massive storm came and I had to call it off. And now having done it, I’m so glad I called it off. What I got from this walk on this day, in the middle of summer, I wasn’t expecting….
Once I reached Chapman’s Pool, the crystal clear water was calling me. So I did something I wouldn’t have done in winter. I got in. Fully in. It was cold, but not too cold. Refreshing. I felt alive.
When I got out and sat on the side, looking at the cliffs surrounding me, I thought about how just a few hours ago I was in London. About the London bubble I was deeply in. For the first time in a long time, I felt such peace and calm but energised at the same time. Things were going to change. I needed to do this more often. Yes it’s a big train journey just for a day trip, but if it leaves me feeling like this, then it’s worth it.
What to expect on the walk from Corfe to Champan’s Pool
The walk from Corfe to Chapman’s Pool is a 4 mile branch of the Purbeck Way. The whole walk is about 9 miles though, as you have to get back. I chose to circle back through Kingston for some variety. Plus there is a good pub.
The walk starts out through the countryside, with incredible views to Corfe Castle. Partway in, a hill hits you. It goes on much longer than you would think.
Then quite suddenly, the big cliffs start to make their appearance, and then you get a view down to Chapman’s Pool. Waiting there for you.
Getting down to the beach, one of the routes is closed off due to a landslide I think, but you can just follow the main path which takes you gently down.
After enjoying Chapman’s Pool, to walk back to Corfe, I recommend first going up the hill the same way you came. The way I took is where the landslide happened (there was no signage here telling you not to go up). Today it was ok because it was very dry, but any sign of rain and it would be horrendous.
Then you will divert off through more countryside towards Kingston, where there is a pub with a view to Corfe Castle not too far away.
The final stretch is pretty much all downhill with that view to Corfe Castle ahead, which was nice because it felt like I was walking uphill all day.
Logistics
- Start/Finish: Corfe Village, Purbeck Dorset.
- Distance: 8.7 miles
- Time: 3h (not including stops, so allow much more time).
- Option to shorten the walk: You can do the loop starting from Kingston. There is a bus that comes through here (see public transport below for details).
- Terrain: Grass, dirt, gravel and dirt road.
- Dog friendly: I think so, I did go over some stiles, but didn’t pay close enough attention, and looking at my photos now I can see either doggy door next to them, or that the gate isn’t locked. I walked passed some sheep, but this isn’t a way I recommend you walk anyway which I explain in the route description below.
- Time of year: I walked from Corfe to Chapman’s Pool in July.
Public transport
The nearest train station is Wareham with direct trains from London Waterloo. Journey time about 2h30min.
From Wareham you can catch the 40 Purbeck Breezer bus (in the direction of Swanage). It’s a 15min journey to Corfe Village, or if you want to start the walk from Kingston it’s an extra 5min.
The 35 bus also goes from Wareham to Corfe.
Amenities
Kingston on the walk back from Chapman’s Pool has the Scott Arms pub (I highly recommend). In Corfe is a village shop, and some more pubs, a bakery, and a tea room at the National Trust Centre. Nothing at Chapman’s Pool (no lifeguards or anything either. It’s proper secluded).
Map for the walk from Corfe to Champan’s Pool
You can see my more detailed route map for the Chapman’s Pool circular walk on Alltrails here.
Route description: How to walk from Corfe to Champan’s Pool
If you have arrived at Corfe by bus, you can either walk into the village centre or get straight onto the trail. As I’ve been here many times before, I just headed to the trail. Directly opposite the bus stop you should see the trail sign leading through a gap in the houses.
(If you want to go to the village centre first, once there you should find a signpost pointing the way to walk to Chapman’s Pool).
Through the gap in the houses, keep going straight and at the corner of the playground is signage pointing left to walk to Chapman’s Pool (you can also reach Corfe village centre by staying straight here).
Walk through the fields with castle views
Walk straight across this field to reach a gate and into the next field. In this field make sure to look back for an amazing view to Corfe Castle.
At the end, you will go through two gates and straight across another field.
At the next gate, turn left to reach the road. Follow the Chapman’s Pool signage straight across the road, and at the end, the trail is to the right behind the hedge.
The common
This will lead you to another field (I later found out this is Corfe Common. I thought about my local common. Clapham Common. Not quite the same).
There is no signage in here. You want to make sure to curve to the left. I didn’t realise this until I walked up the hill. Nice castle view from up there though. Don’t worry about going up to see the view as you will walk through here on your way back from Chapman’s Pool.
Now, curving around the common to the left will lead you to a gate and road. The trail continues directly opposite the road, but you want to be careful of cars here. There is a blind hill.
More fields, some woods, and a farm
In the next field, take a right at the trail split.
Continue following the trail, and through a couple more gates, then you will reach farm land.
I was a little nervous here. Ever since that time I was chased by a farm dog, I’ve been nervous in farm land. So I waited behind the gate for a bit. Looked at my route. My escape.
Through the gate it’s straight to reach a big footpath sign pointing left through another gate. I dashed through here quick.
Through some trees and over a rugged wooden bridge, take a right in the next field, and follow the edge.
There is a series of fields here (I think three) that you keep to the right edge of.
The uphill
You will have already started the uphill, and it goes on for some time.
In the last field, the way out is a little hidden in the bushes. Then it’s a trail lined with bushes to reach the dirt track type road, where you turn right for more uphill.
More wonderful Corfe Castle views from up here.
Go through the farm gate, then uphill some more, and through another big metal gate, and more uphill to reach the road.
The trail picks up on the other side of the road to the right (but to the left of the Lookout cottage).
The rugged and wild
Follow the trail along the side of the cottage, and the take a right through the metal gate.
Things start to get a bit wild here. Tall grass and bushes, fallen signs. Then at the end, turn right. Just 1 3/4 miles to go to reach Chapman’s Pool.
You will be lead downhill, then at the bottom junction, turn left to go downhill some more.
You will be lead through a couple of wooded areas, then at a junction, if you look to the left you will see a wooden trail sign. Head to that and turn right onto the road.
The final stretch to reach Chapman’s Pool
Nearly there!
A little further along the road, at the junction, you have two options to reach Chapman’s Pool. Take the left which points to St Aldhelms. When you walk back later, I recommend walking back to this bit, then taking the other direction which will lead you through a small village and towards Kingston. Although I walked back a different way, that’s where I ended up.
Up the left road and through a gate, at the junction with headstone type sign, take the right along the bridleway. I had to check my map to see which route to take, and was glad it was this one. It looks more friendly than the other one.
Along this trail you will soon start to get a view to the sea and cliffs. It gave me goosebumps. It dawned on me I hadn’t seen this bit of sea for over a year. I’d seen the North Sea, but that’s different. Looking down to the different shades of blue, below the massive rugged cliffs, I felt the excitement.
If you follow this bridleway, it will lead you all the way down to Chapman’s Pool. It’s downhill, which means you have a big uphill to look forward to. But that’s a problem for later.
Make sure to look out for the view to the Fishermans cottage below.
Chapman’s Pool
You will arrive at the Fishermans cottage side of Chapman’s Pool. The sandy bit is on the other side of the bay. I chose to base myself here.
The thing about today is, it was the first sunny day for a bit. We are in July and it’s just been constant rain, grey, and miserable.
Getting into the water I was expecting a rush of extreme cold. It was cold, but not that cold. It was wonderful. And the water was so clear, I felt like I could be in the med.
I didn’t have to rush to dry and dress once I got out either. The sun was so wonderfully warm. Not scorching hot like the med would be this time of year. This was better than the med. I hadn’t planned to stay long, but sitting out in the sun was bliss. So I hung around for a bit.
Start the walk back from Chapman’s Pool
Now, before heading out on the walk I had read up on this trail. Three things popped up. One was that one of the paths was closed due to landslide (which we passed earlier). Another was about some treacherous steps which were partly destroyed and having to fight through overgrowth. The third was about a really treacherous steep bit which should not be attempted after rain. I had already planned to skip these bits, but I ended up giving it a go. Especially as I knew the views would be very good if I made it to the top.
I failed, which is why I recommend just walking back the way you came up the bridleway.
I will show you what I did anyway so you can see.
The detour
I noticed some people walking up on the other side of Chapman’s Pool. The way I had read you shouldn’t go. They were doing it, so maybe it wasn’t so bad. I would give it a go.
As I started to make my way up this bit, I realised this must be where the landslide was. It felt very landslide esque. Despite all the rain we had had, it was nice and dry. So far, so good.
The trail then lightened up through the valley, before hitting the mass overgrowth and impossibly small bush tunnel. I practically had to get on my hands and knees to get through.
Then it’s the big hill. This must be that treacherous steep bit not to be attempted after rain. I could see what they meant. There is no way you’d be able to grip if the ground was wet. Surprisingly again, it was very dry.
Once up the top, looking up the cliff to where I wanted to get to, it looked easy enough. I wondered where those steps were though.
Turning back
Finding the way to get to that clifftop was difficult. The trail is hidden. I could see a little wooden bridge below in the dip, and made my way down, not sure I would make it without slipping.
Then on the bridge, seeing where to go next, I called it. I was so close, but it was time to turn back. If I absolutely had to, I would squeeze through the bush, but not knowing if the steps were useable and possibly having to turn back once I got to them, it wasn’t worth it.
I turned around and crossed the field to find the other trail, and found myself having to climb over a locked gate which was odd. Am I allowed to be in here?
Over the gate was a wonderfully easy trail. This was more like it. I had two options to walk to Kingston, I chose the right because it looked more scenic.
I was happy with my choice, and passed by lots of sheep.
This led me to a little village. The one I suggested you should walk to on your way back (remember that sign from earlier where I said to take the left to walk to Chapman’s Pool. If you take the right, you will get to this village. I explain more below).
Walk to Kingston
Now, if you took the bridleway up from Chapman’s Pool, at the road junction, turn left to get to the little village, then stay straight up the hill.
Through the gate it’s more uphill. Then uphill some more. I could have sworn I spent most off the walk to Chapman’s Pool walking uphill. I was looking forward to the downhill for the walk back. I felt cheated.
When you get to the fields (also uphill), I think it’s the second field where you need to go through a gate on the right. See photo below.
You will enter a meadow, where I found the trail wasn’t as obvious to start, but then it became more clear. I suspect at different times of year that the grass isn’t so tall, so it should be more visible for the first bit.
Follow this all the way to the road, where you turn right.
This road will lead you to Kingston. Although I don’t like too much road walking, I liked this. It was nice through the woodland tunnel.
When you reach Kingston, at the road junction take a right, and you will reach the Scott Arms Pub. As I spent longer down at Chapman’s Pool than I had planned, and wanted to catch a specific train back to London, I didn’t stop. I have eaton here before though, and it’s good. In the beer garden there is a great view to Corfe Castle.
Walk back to Corfe Village
To continue on the trail, take the left before the pub, next to the red telephone box. Follow the road as it curves to the left around the houses, then into the woods next to the church.
When you reach the junction in the woods, turn right, then look out for a gate on the left.
This will lead you to a big field and the anticipated downhill. Finally I get to walk down.
You will be able to see Corfe Castle ahead. You are basically heading straight now to reach it.
Down this wonderful hill, and over the stile (with doggy door), keep to the right of the next small field, then cross the road onto the next trail. This will lead you into some woods.
A tree took my hat off my head in here.
Out of the woods continue straight across the field, with a view to a hill ahead. A sneaky uphill to come.
Through a couple more gates you will reach the hill. This is Clapham Common from the start of the walk to Chapmans Pool earlier.
At the top of the hill, you will see the castle again. Just follow the trail in that direction and you will reach the village. You might be led to a road first, like me. If so, then a right turn on the road will take you there.
More local/similar walks
If you fancy another wild swim type walk, you should try this one to Dancing Ledge. It’s practically around the corner from Chapman’s Pool.
For more of the Purbeck Way, you could try the walk to Swanage. This is more of a ridgeway style walk. Over that way is the Old Harry Rocks walk, also a goodie.
For a pub walk, this one from Kimmeridge takes you along the coast and up to Kingston.
And finally, I can’t not mention the Durdle Door walk. It’s one of the most famous places in Dorset.